Easy Stashbusting Market Bag - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I have a confession.  My yarn is out of control. I have plastic bins, reusable market bags, plastic bags, and boxes of yarn. I have a serious problem. I decided yesterday that I need to get rid of at least half of my stash and the way I am going to do it is by creating quick patterns that make useful things.  Today, I have the first pattern for you!

This pattern used up the remaining skein and a half I had of Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in Forrest Green.  I also had a small amount of a pink Vanna's Choice yarn that I used to make the flower.  Both Impeccable and Vanna's Choice are worsted weight yarns. You can make this bag with any worsted weight yarn you have.

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Easy Stash Busting Market Bag

Supplies:

1-2 skeins Loops and Threads Impeccable Yarn (worsted weight)

H hook (5.0 mm)

Tapestry needle

Stitches:

DC – double crochet

SC – single crochet

Reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

Slip stitch

chain

Pattern:

Row 1: Using a magic circle, chain 2, 12 double crochets into the circle. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC.

Row 2: Chain 2, 2 DC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC. (24 DC)

Row 3: Chain 2. *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC* into the next. Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC. (36 DCs)

Row 4: Chain 2. *2DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in the next, 1 DC in the next. * Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC. (48 DCs)

Row 5: Chain 2. *2DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in the next, 1 DC in the next, 1 DC in the next.*  Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC. (60 DCs)

Row 6: Chain 2. *2DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in each of the next 4 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC. (72 DCs)

Row 7: Chain 2. *2DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in each of the next 5 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to the top of the first DC. (84 DCs)

Row 8: Chain 1. Single crochet in the same stitch and in the next stitch. Chain 4 and skip the next 3 stitches. *1 single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches. Chain 4 and skip the next 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around until 2 stitches remain. Single crochet in the last two stitches. Slip stitch to the top of the first single crochet.

Row 9:  Slip stitch into the next single crochet and slip stitch into the next chain 4 space. Chain 1. *Crochet 4 SC into the chain 4 space. Chain 4 and skip the next 4 SC.* Repeat from * to * around.  Slip stitch to the top of the first single crochet. (12 chain 4 spaces, 12 sets of 4 SC)

Rows 10 – 23: Repeat Row 9. (If you would like a taller bag, continue to repeat Row 9.)

Row 24: Chain 1, crochet 1 SC in each of the next 4 single crochets. In the chain 4 space, 4 SC. Continue crocheting 1 SC in each of the SCs from the previous row and 4 SC in each of the chain 4 spaces. Slip stitch to the top of the first single crochet. (96 SCs)

Row 25:  Chain 1, 1 SC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to the top of the first single crochet. (96 SCs)

Begin the straps:

Row 26: Chain 1, 1 SC in the same stitch and in each of the next 11 stitches. To be secure, slip stitch once into the same space as your last SC.  Chain 60 (or more if you would like longer straps. Make sure to count them!), skip the next 24 SCs, slip stitch into the next stitch and SC into the same stitch. 1 SC in each of the next 23 stitches. Slip stitch into the same space as the last SC. Chain 60 (or the other number you made). Skip 24 SCs, slip stitch into the next stitch and SC into the same stitch.  1 SC in each of the next 11 SC.  Slip stitch to the top of the first SC. (2 sets of 24 SC, 2 sets of 24 skipped stitches, 2 sets of 60 chains)

Row 27: Chain 1, 1 SC in the same stitch and in each of the next 11 stitches. Skip the first chain and SC in each of the next 58 stitches.  Skip the last chain and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 24 stitches.  Skip the first chain and SC in each of the next 58 stitches.  Skip the last chain and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 12 stitches.  Slip stitch to the top of the first SC. (140 SC)
 

Row 28: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each of the next 11 stitches. Skip the next stitch and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 56 stitches. Skip the last stitch of the strap and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 24 stitches. Skip the next stitch and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 56 stitches. Skip the last stitch of the strap and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 12 stitches. Slip stitch to the top of the first SC.  (138 SC)

Row 29: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each of the next 11 stitches. Skip the next stitch and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 54 stitches. Skip the last stitch of the strap and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 24 stitches. Skip the next stitch and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 56 stitches. Skip the last stitch of the strap and crochet 1 SC in each of the next 12 stitches. Slip stitch to the top of the first SC. (136 SC)

Row 30 (optional): Crab stitch row to finish!  Chain 1, insert the hook, from front to back, in the next stitch to the right. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. Repeat in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends! (136 RSC)

Optional flower:

Row 1: Using a magic circle, 8 SC.

Row 2 (petals): All stitches in this row are in the front loops only.  1 slip stitch into the front loop of the first SC.  3 HDC into the next stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch.*  Continue in the front loops only, repeat from * to *. (4 petals, 4 slip stitches)

Row 3: All stitches in this row are crocheted into the back loops only of Row 1 (behind the petals). 2 SC in each stitch around. (16 SC)

Row 4 (petals): All stitches in this row are in the front loops only. 1 slip stitch into the front loop of the first SC.  3 HDC into the next stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch.*  Continue in the front loops only, repeat from * to *. (8 petals, 8 slip stitches)

Row 5: All stitches in this row are crocheted into the back loops only of Row 3 (behind the petals). *2 SC in the first stitch, 1 SC in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. (24 SC)

Row 6 (petals): All stitches in this row are in the front loops only. 1 slip stitch into the front loop of the first SC.  3 HDC into the next stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch.*  Continue in the front loops only, repeat from * to *. (12 petals, 12 slip stitches)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sedona Wobbly Stripes Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love buying variegated yarn.  It always looks gorgeous on the skein, but once I start crocheting with it, I rarely like the pattern that results.  That is, until I started using a V-stitch pattern with my Loops & Threads Charisma yarn! Charisma is a bulky acrylic yarn and calls for a 6.5 mm hook. A few months ago, there was a crazy sale and I got 10 skeins of Charisma yarn in the Toadstool colorway for $1.99 a skein.  I started experimenting with the Wobbly V-stitch in horizontal strips and I really like how it came out.  Honestly, I think this pattern would be great with any variegated yarn.

When I shared a picture of this blanket with my friends on Facebook, it was unanimous that the blanket reminded them of colors in the desert.  Several said it reminded them of the colors in Sedona, Arizona.  The Toadstool colorway does look like a painted desert and the wobbly v-stitches help highlight each color.  I decided to make a baby blanket out of this amazing yarn especially for a coworker who spends the majority of her time outdoors. My favorite part is that the variegated yarn changes color on its own!

Sedona Wobbly Stripes Blanket Pattern

Supplies:

6 to 7 skeins Loops & Threads Charisma Yarn in Toadstool
K (6.5 mm) hook
tapestry needle

Stitches (US terms):

ch - chain stitch
DC - Double crochet
DC2TOG: double crochet together

Pattern:

Chain 80. (This will make a receiving blanket size.  To make a larger blanket, chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.)

Row 1: DC in the fifth chain from the hook.Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same chain, skip one chain, complete the dc2tog in the next chain. Chain 1. * Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, crochet one final dc2tog without skipping a chain between the dcs. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the chain 3 from the first row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 3: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Chain 3 and turn.

Rows 4-42: The rest of the blanket is super simple!  Just repeat row 3.  If you would like your blanket longer, continue row 3.

Border: I added a single crochet border around the entire blanket, but you can use any border you like.  You could even leave the blanket without a border!

Wobbly Circles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Oh, my goodness. It has been two months since I promised you a Wobbly Circles Blanket pattern.  Two months.  It stuns me that my life is so busy! 

You may not know this, but I am a teacher.  In addition to that, I am an assistant director for our summer school program.  As soon as the school year ends, I'm getting summer school up and running.  Add to that all of the excitement two 8-year olds require and I hardly have time to breathe.  I know many of you are in the same boat.  The good news is that I had time this weekend to translate my written pattern into an actual blanket!

So far, we've made a Wobbly Squares Blanket and a Wobbly Rectangles Blanket.  This pattern is for the Wobbly Circles Blanket.  The ironic thing is that as I made this blanket, the larger the circles got, the less they looked like circles and more like a seven sided shape.  The placement of the increases spirals out, but they are still discernible.   By the way, if you are like me and are dying to know what a seven sided shape is called, look no further!  A seven sided shape is called a heptagon. You've learned something new today!

I did something I haven't done before with this blanket: I crocheted it entirely in cotton yarn.  I had a ton of Peaches & Creme yarn that I had not used and decided to see what it would do as a blanket.  I was a little anxious.  I've generally only used this yarn for water bottle covers, mug hugs, and Kindle covers.  I just did not see it as a blanket.  I was pleasantly surprised!  This blanket is so light and lovely.  

Okay, let's get started!

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Wobbly Circles Blanket - Free Pattern by Tw-In Stitches

Supplies

2.5 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - White
2.5 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - Bright Chartreuse ("green" throughout pattern)
3 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - Iced Strawberry ("pink" throughout pattern)

H hook ( 5.0 mm)

tapestry needle

Special Stitches:

Dc2tog: Begin a dc in on space and pull up yarn through two loops only (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook through next chain 1 space. Yarn over, pull up through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops.


Regular Wobbly V-Stitch is made by a series of 2 dc2togs: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the SAME chain 1 space and complete it in the next.


Increase Wobbly V-Stitch: To increase, we will crochet a chain 1, dc, chain 1 between Wobbly V-Stitches.  So: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. In the same space, chain 1, DC, chain 1, begin your next dc2tog and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  The Increase Wobbly V-Stitch looks like a W.

Important Note about increases:

The easiest way to keep track of where the increase wobbly stitches go is to make certain they always go in the first chain 1 space of the increase wobbly stitch (W) from the previous round.  If you do this, you will always know when you should be increasing and when it should be a regular wobbly stitch.  Here is a sample of what I mean (pictures are from the Full Wobbly Hat):

Gauge:

7 dc2tog and 6 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches
Completed blanket is 40 inches across.

Pattern (baby blanket size):

Row 1 (Pink): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* six times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have seven chain 1 spaces. Fasten off and weave in ends.  Weave as you go!  You'll thank me later!


Row 2 (White): In this round we are going to crochet an Increase Wobbly V-stitch in each chain 1 space.  Remember that because we are doing the wobbly v-stitches, half of the v will begin in a chain 1 space and end in the next.


With new color, begin a standing dc2tog in a chain 1 space, complete in the next space. In this same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog in the same space. Repeat around. Complete the last dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as the standing dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends. (7 Increase Wobbly V-Stitches will appear to be 14 V-Stitches = 14 chain 1 spaces)


Row 3 (Green): In this round, we will alternate Increase Wobbly V-Stitch in one chain 1 space and Regular Wobbly V-Stitch in the next. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any of the Increase Wobbly V-Stitches.  It is important to the way we will be increasing that you start here.  Since the increase looks like a W, you will start in the left opening of the W.  Complete your dc2tog in the next space.  *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * around.  (You should have alternating increases and regular wobbly Vs in each chain 1 space around.) Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Row 4 (Pink): In this round we will follow this pattern: Increase wobbly, regular wobbly, regular wobbly.

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of any Increase Wobbly from row 3 and complete in the next space.   *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around.  Chain 1, and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Row 5 (White): Again, remember to begin a standing dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of any Increase Wobbly from row 4.  Then, continuing the pattern of increase, regular, regular, regular around.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Remember, increases will always go in the first chain 1 space of any W.  All the rest are regular wobbly V-stitches.


Row 6 (Green): From here out, you will continue by starting the first dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of an Increase Wobbly V-Stitch, increasing in the first chain 1 of the increase in the row before, Regular Wobbly V-Stitches in the rest of the chain 1 spaces.

Increase, regular 4 times. Repeat.

Row 7 (Pink): Increase, regular 5 times. Repeat.

Row 8 (White): Increase, regular 6 times. Repeat.

Do you see how it works?

Rows 9-27: Continue alternating colors each row following the pattern.

Row 28 (Pink): No increases in this round.  Regular Wobbly V-Stitches in each chain 1 space around. If you are going to use the same color like I did, slip stitch to the top of the first dc2tog and slip stitch into the next chain 1 space.

Row 29 (Pink): I used a scallop border for my blanket and I love it!  It is easy to do and is completed entirely in the chain 1 spaces from Row 28.

In the chain 1 space from row 28, chain 1, 1 sc in the same space. In the next chain 1 space, 5 dcs.  *In the next chain 1 space, 1 sc. In the next chain 1 space, 5 dcs.*  Repeat from * to * around, ending with a slip stitch in the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Making a larger sized blanket:

To make your blanket larger, continue from row 27 with the increase/regular pattern.  When you have reached the diameter you desire, crochet one row of Regular Wobbly V-Stitches and finish with the border you desire.