Wobbly Squares Blanket {without changing colors} | Free Pattern by Tw-In Stitches

So what happens if you really like the Wobbly Squares design, but really do not want to change colors?  No worries. I can help! It is super easy and it completely hides the join.

Supplies:

Worsted Weight yarn
hook size should be one size larger than the yarn calls for
tapestry needle to fasten off

Stitches:

Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Double crochet together (dc2tog)
Slip Stitch
Chain

Pattern:

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.

Row 1: Using a magic circle, chain 2, then 1 double crochet (DC). This counts as one dc2tog. *Chain 1, dc2tog.* Repeat from * to * 6 times. Chain 1. Join to the top of the first DC. Slip stitch into the first chain 1 space. (1 DC, 8 chain spaces, 7 dc2tog)

Chart of Row 1

Join to top of first DC.

Slip Stitch into chain 1 space.

Row 2: Chain 1, 1 half double crochet (HDC) in the same space. In the next chain 1 space, DC and chain 1.

Chain 1, hdc in same space.

DC in next chain 1 space.

To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Yarn over, insert hook into same chain 1 space, yarn over, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1.

First V and first corner completed.

Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the DC. Slip stitch into the next chain 1 space. (to make sure this is correct, you should appear to have four corners and 4 sides with a V-stitch in the middle)

Row 2 (Not the best chart, but I did my best!)

Row 3: To continue in the same color, chain 1, HDC in the same space.  DC in the next chain 1 space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Each new corner will always be in the chain 1 space between the 2 double crochets of the previous corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the first DC.  Slip stitch into the next chain 1 space.

Rows 4-and beyond: Continue the pattern as directed for each additional row.  Remember: to continue using a single color, you have to slip stitch into the next chain 1 space to after you have joined to complete a row. then chain 1 and HDC in the same space, DC in the next and chain 1. After that, the wobbly pattern continues.

I'm currently working on a blanket using this pattern and will share it with you as soon as it is completed.  I do have one other one I made using this method and Ice Magic Light yarn.  This variegated yarn created a very fun effect!

Wobbly Stripes Handbag - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Oh, my goodness!  I've been crocheting up a storm trying to get rid of my stash and every time I think I've made some headway, I find another bag, another box, and more skeins of yarn!  I'm flabbergasted by the amount of yarn I have.

The yarn that frustrate me the most is the balls of partial skeins of yarn (a.k.a. the dreaded scraps).  I have a ton of them leftover from blankets scarves and other things I've made.  I had quite a few balls of yarn left from when I made the Sophie's Universe blanket earlier this year.  I used Vanna's Choice in ten different shades and I had enough left that I thought I might be able to make a handbag.  As I started, I thought "Why not use the wobbly pattern?" You guys, seriously!  The Wobbly V-Stitch makes this bag so fun and quick to make.  The two bags pictured were made in the last 24 hours!

I started by using up the two skeins of the Rust colorway.  I thought, for sure, that I would use it more in my blanket, but it bothered me every time I used it and ended up avoiding using it.  The good news is that I have a sister who loves orange, so this bag was made with her in mind.  

I decided to start with a Wobbly Square and continue with Wobbly Stripes worked in the round.  The great thing about this pattern is that you can make the bottom of the bag bigger or smaller depending on your beginning square.  Also, you can choose to make the bag deeper by repeating the Wobbly Stripes rows. I also added a button to close the top of the bag in a different way!

Wobbly Stripes Handbag - Free Pattern

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn (I used the leftover Vanna’s Choice yarn from my Sophie’s Universe blanket)

H hook (5.0 mm)

Tapestry needle
3/4 inch or 1 inch diameter button

Stitches Needed:

Magic Circle

Chain

SC: Single crochet

DC: double crochet

dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.

slip stitch

Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.

Standing dc2tog: begin a standing DC, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog. 

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, DC, chain 1, DC, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 DCs in each corner. 

Working with one color: If you decide to make your handbag in one color instead of multiple colors, you will not be fastening off.  You will need to be able to work your way up to the next row.  It's easy to do! Join to the top of the first dc2tog, slip stitch into the chain 1 space. Chain 3. Double crochet into the next chain 1 space. Chain 1 and begin the dc2tog part of the pattern.  See? Easy!

Pattern:

** Click here for a photo tutorial of the first 3 rows. **

Row 1: Using Color 1, crochet a magic circle, chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).  Crochet one dc2tog, then chain 1. Repeat from * to * seven more times.  Join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. Close magic circle.

In each of the following rows, all stitches will be worked in the chain 1 spaces of the previous row.

Row 2: Using Color 2, using the standing double crochet method, join the new color in one of the chain 1 spaces, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the standing dc2tog. Fasten off.

 {You may choose to weave in your ends as you go or leave them until the end.}

Row 3: Using Color 3, join using the standing double crochet method in any space but a corner.  Remember to only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the standing dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Rows 4-6: Repeat row 3. Alternate colors according to the pattern you established.

Rows 7-20: For these rows, we are going to ignore the corners and consider only their chain 1 spaces!  This row is only dc2togs and chain 1s.  Join using the standing double crochet method in any space. Complete the dc2tog in the next chain space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space. End with the find dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as your first stitch, chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note: If you like, you can continue this pattern beyond these rows.  The more rows you add, the deeper your bag!

Row 21:  Before you begin this row, take a moment to gain your bearings.  The bottom of your bag is a square and if you want your handles to match up with the sides of the square, you need to place your first stitch in a specific location.   Look at the bottom of your bag and find row 6.  Look for the center V of one of the corner. From each center corner V, trace up and place a marker in the V in the top row. Mark all 4.  You should see that there are a total of 11 Vs between one center V and the next center V.  Count over to the fifth V from one of the corner markers and join yarn with a standing single crochet in that chain 1 space.  Crochet a second SC in that space. In each of the chain 1 spaces around, crochet 2 SCs.  Join to the top of the first single crochet. I recommend keeping the same color, but you can fasten off and use a new color in the next round. (96 scs)

I marked my V-stitches and moved the stitch markers to the single crochets in preparation for Row 22.

Row 22: Let’s make the handles! There is a lot of counting going on for the rest of the pattern, so make sure to check frequently!

If you are using the same color, chain 1. SC in the same stitch as join. (If you are using a different color, make a standing SC into the first stitch from the last row.) SC in the next 22 stitches. Slip stitch into the next stitch. Chain 32 (you can do more if you want longer handles!). Skip 16 stitches and slip stitch into the 17^th stitch. SC into the next stitch and in each of the next 29 stitches (30 scs). Slip stitch into the next stitch. Chain 32. SC into the next stitch and each of the next 6 stitches. Slip stitch to the top of the first SC to join. (2 sets of 30 single crochets, 4 slip stiches, 2 sets of 32 chains). Note: if you are changing colors each row, I would recommend using the same color for this row and the next.

Row 23: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch** and in each of the next 22 stitches. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into each the 32 chains. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into the next 30 stitches. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into each the 32 chains. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into each of the next 7 stitches.  Slip stitch to the top of the first SC to join. Fasten off.

**Remember that if you are joining another color, you can join using the standing SC instead of joining and chaining 1 before the SC.

Row 24: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in the next 22 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten Off.

Row 25: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in the next 22 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 28 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 14 stitches.  In the next, stitch SC once and slip stitch into the same stitch.  Chain 2, skip 2 stitches. Slip stitch and SC into the next stitch. This forms the button hole. SC in each of the next 13 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 28 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 7 stitches. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten Off.

Row 26: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in the next 22 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 26 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 26 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten Off.

If you want thicker straps, you can keep going beyond Row 26, but I think 4 rows is enough!

To finish, weave in any ends you have. Sew a button on the inside of the bag opposite the button hole.  When you slip the button through the hole and hold the handles, the bag will close up quite nicely!

Feel free to add your favorite flower or other accessory!

Lacey Trellis Poncho - Spiral Version - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Have you tried the original Lacey Trellis Poncho?  I've made five since I posted the pattern.  They are so ridiculously quick to make!  I even entered one in the community art show at school.

I've been wanting to try to make the Lacey Trellis in the round for quite some time, but never had time to sit down and try it.  Last week, I decided to see what I could come up with.  In my mind, it looked just like the Lacey Trellis above, only the trellis was vertical instead of horizontal. Silly me forgot that the trellis only happens because you work the pattern back and forth..  As I started the pattern, I worked in the round without a join.  The result was this amazing continuous spiral.  What is awesome is the amazing spiral pattern that started because I was working in the round!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue! 

Lacy Trellis Spiral Poncho

Supplies:

2 skeins Red Heart Love yarn {see note at end if you would like to use a different weight of yarn}
K hook {see note at end if you would like to use a different hook}
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Stitches Used:

chain
single crochet (SC)
half double crochet (HDC)
double crochet (DC)

Special Notes:

* For the  rows 2-8, the chain 2 does NOT count as an HDC.
At the end of each of the first 8 rows, join to the top of the first stitch and continue in the round.

Before you begin your poncho, you need to decide whether you would like it to hang off your shoulders or would like it to stay on top of both shoulders.  I made this poncho for a friend, but when I made one for me, I measured the distance between my bra straps and doubled it to find my starting chain length.   Starting chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1.

Pattern:

{As written, this pattern will fit a women's size large or extra large.  To make another size, see pattern notes below.}

Chain 81, slip stitch to join. Be careful not to twist.
Row 1: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join in the top of the first SC. (80 SC)

Row 2: Chain 2, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join. (80 HDC)

Row 3: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches.*  Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. (88 HDC)

Row 4: Chain 2, 2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (96 HDC)

Row 5: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (104 HDC)

Row 6: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (112 HDC)

Row 7-8: Chain 2, 1 HDC in each stitch around. (112 stitches)
*Note this row MUST be a multiple of 6 stitches + 4.  (For example, 64, 88, 112, 136, or 160)  If you see that you need to continue to increase, make sure that your final row is a multiple of 6 stitches plus 4.

Begin the Trellis:
The trellis is crocheted in the round, so when you come back to the first chain 3, you will continue the pattern into row 2 of the trellis.

Trellis Row 1:  *Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, 3 DC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.  The last set of stitches in the first row of the trellis will be a chain 3.  You will still have two stitches between the last sc and the beginning chain 3. Continue the pattern by crocheting 3 DC in the beginning chain 3.

From that point forward, continue with this pattern: *Chain 3, SC in the top of first DC in the next 3 DC cluster. Chain 3, 3 DC in the next chain 3 space. *  Repeat from * to *. 

Continue the spiral trellis pattern until your piece has 20-24 rows of trellis.  If you would like, you can continue longer than this, but 20-24 rows will result in a piece that ends just below your elbows.

End with a SC in the top of the first DC of a 3 DC cluster and a slip stitch in the second DC.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sizing Notes:  

This pattern should fit most adult women sizes L-XL using Red Heart with Love yarn and a K hook.   If you would like to use a different yarn or hook size, you will need to determine the correct number of chains to begin.  To determine your number of starting chains, you will need to measure the distance from one shoulder to the other and double that distance.  Your starting chain should be that length and follow the multiple of 8 + 1 rule for the beginning chain.

If you need to make the pattern smaller or larger, your initial chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1 stitches.

Rows 1-6 should be multiples of 8 with an increase of 8 stitches each row. Here's how to calculate where to make your increases.  Take your multiple of 8, for example 96, and divide by 8 = 12.  Your repeat pattern will take place over 12 stitches.  You will crochet 2 HDC into the first stitch and 1 HDC into the next 11. This will be your repeat.  If your multiple of 8 is 120, 120 divided by 8 is 15, so your repeat pattern will take place over 15 stitches.  2 DC in the first, and 1 DC in each of the next 14.

Rows 7-8 should be a multiple of  6 stitches + 4 stitches.  NO increases.

Here is a chart of how it works:

			Original
Starting multiple of 8	32	56	80	104	128
Row 3 (increase)	40	64	88	112	136
Row 4 (increase)	48	72	96	120	144
Row 5 (increase)	56	80	104	128	152
Row 6 (before sprial)	64	88	112	136	160

Santa Cup Cozy - Free Pattern!

We are getting down to the last minute for craft fairs and gifts.  Today is the craft fair here at work.  My friend and I have crocheted about thirty cup cozies with the thought that they are simple gifts with a lot of personality.  In our fever to make them all, I found myself swamped with IDEAS and one stood out from the bunch.  Meet the Santa Cup Cozy!

I knew I wanted to make something Santa-ish, but I could not fine the right pattern.  Then, yesterday, I had a flash of inspiration.  I'm sharing it with you because I love it so much!

You will need the following SUPPLIES:

Worsted weight yarn in 3 colors; white, red, and a color for skin.  I've used buff here.
An H (5.00 mm) hook
Two black buttons
One button for a nose
Tapestry needle
Black thread
white thread or color for nose

Stitches:

slip stich
single crochet
bobble stitch (Click here for a video by Moogly)

Pattern:

This pattern is worked in the round in rows.

With red yarn, chain 29.  Slip stitch to first chain to form a loop, being careful not to twist the chain. Chain 1.

Row 1: Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join to the top of the first SC. Chain 1.

Row 2: Single crochet in each stitch around. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten off.

Row 3: Switching to white yarn join and chain 1. Single crochet in each stitch around. Join to the top of the first SC. Chain 1.

Row 4: Single crochet in each of the next 12 stitches. *Slip stitch into the next stitch and chain 10. Working back along the chain, crochet 2 single crochets in each chain back to the initial slip stitch. Single crochet into the same stitch as the slip stitch. * Repeat from * to * three more times. Single crochet in each of the next 12 stitches. Join to the top of the first SC.

Row 5: Single crochet in each stitch around. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten off.

Row 6: Switch to the flesh colored yarn, join, and chain 1. Single crochet in each stitch around. Join to the top of the first SC. Chain 1.

Row 7-11: Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join to the top of the first SC. Chain 1.
At the end of row 11, Fasten off.

Row 12: Switch to white yarn, join, and chain 1. Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join to the top of the first SC. Chain 1.

Row 13: Single crochet in the first stitch.  Bobble Stitch in the next. *Single crochet in the next. Bobble Stitch in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first single crochet.

Row 14: Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten off.

Row 15: Switch to the red yarn, join, and chain 1. Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join to the top of the first SC. Chain 1.

Row 16 Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Sew your button for the nose in the flesh colored yarn.  Attach the buttons for the eyes.

I love the 3D effect of this cozy!

Enjoy!

P.S. If you like the Cup Cozy insert, you can find it a the Frogging Along blog here.

Combining patterns to make you stretch your crochet muscle

When you are first learning how to crochet, it feels like you have to stick to the easiest of patterns.  As you gain confidence, you may try more complicated designs.  I completely remember the first time I made the Divine Hat on Ravelry, the Flower Newsgirl Beanie by Polka Dot Posh, and the One Skein Lap Throw.  I felt fancy.  In retrospect, those patterns weren't too complicated, but there was counting involved and paying attention to how to place the hook to create the right stitch.  The best part was how accomplished I felt.

At some point, you gain enough confidence to start  playing.  By playing I mean going off the pattern or combining patterns.  I've been doing that for a while now; using one stitch for the body of a blanket and two or three border patterns to create something unique for the border.  It was pillow slip covers that really got me trying different things.  I made a flower pillow that combined a flower crocheted in the round, a pattern to change the round shape into a square, and then Cherry Heart's cushion back tutorial to finish up the slip cover.  I've written about the pillows here.

You can do this, too!  I've used Pinterest to collect a bunch of different patterns I like and thought about ways I could combine them.  One night, I found myself with quite a bit of yarn left from a Lacy Trellis blanket and thought I might try some of the patterns I had been pinning.  I love Dada's Place Primavera flower square and knew that I wanted to try it out.  Once I made one, I was hooked!  I made three more without even noticing how far I had gotten.  Then, after staring at the squares and wondering how I wanted to combine them, I went back to Pinterest and found a pin I had for a simulated braid join.  With a giant square created, I decided to turn it into a pillow.  I used a simple pattern to create stripes across the back and used Cherry Heart's cushion back tutorial to create the overlapping pieces for my pillow slip cover.

The result of all this experimentation and combination is this pillow.

From the front!

From the back.  Buttons hold the overlapping pieces together to secure the slip cover.

I'm in love with this pillow.  It will go perfectly with the blanket I made and it is seriously cheery.

Why don't you try something like this?  Pick two or more patterns you like and try combining them in a different way to make something unique.  It will stretch your crochet skills and make you feel super accomplished.  If you blog about them or post pictures somewhere, I hope you will share them!

Changing colors with the Double Knot Technique

Jane Richmond's Double Knot technique of joining yarn has really changed my world.  No more weaving in ends!  When you are crocheting with the same color yarn, the join is pretty much invisible.  But what happens when you want to switch colors?

It took me some trial and error, but I figured out how to change colors. Once I did, I was able to make a bag for my projects only having to weave in the first tail and the last.  I changed colors every row for 25 rows of that bag and I only weaved in two tails!  

Now, I'm using it on a blanket.  Here's what to do:

1) Crochet (and complete) to the last stitch in your current color. 

2) Snip the yarn right where it is on your hook. This makes certain that you only have the amount of your current color that you need before the color change. Put your hook aside. 

3) Pull out one or two of your stitches to give you yarn to work with. 

4) Join the new yarn to the end of your current color, making certain that the knot of your current color is as close to the end as possible. I can generally work it so that I only have about a half an inch of excess. 

5) Complete your knot, snip off the ends. 

6) Reinsert your hook and crochet back the stitches you took out. The new color should come up right at the point you want it to start!

I'm not worried about that speck of white on the side, because I'm planning on including a border.  However, I've learned that you can pull your stitches back out, readjust your tension and crochet the stitches again to make that knot completely hidden by your stitches. 

I absolutely love the Double Knot method and I hope you find this method of joining colors helpful!