I've been teaching for 21 years! Free Pattern Celebration - OFFER HAS ENDED!

Today is my 21st first day of school as a teacher!  That seems so crazy to me. I swear I just graduated from college.  :)

To celebrate 21 years of teaching, I am offering you a free pattern!  I have exactly one paid pattern in my Ravelry store and it is yours for free until Friday at 11:59 pm PST. OFFER HAS ENDED!

Meet the Toasty Warm Ponytail Hat! Made with bulky yarn, this crocheted hat is made so that you can wear your ponytail high or low. Dress it up by adding flowers or fun buttons.

To get the Toasty Warm Ponytail Hat, simply
1) Visit the pattern page on Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/toasty-warm-ponytail-hat
2) Click on Add to Cart
3) Enter this coupon code: 21FIRST (case sensitive!)
4) Checkout!

Please feel free to share the link to this page, but please do not share coupon code on its own.

Thanks for celebrating with me!

The Fully Wobbly - Free Hat Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Wobbly V-Stitch Hat Version 1: The Full Wobbly   

I am totally excited to share with you the first of two wobbly v-stitch hats: The Full Wobbly!  The Full Wobbly is comprised of v-stitches from the very beginning.  The fun part about the wobbly patterns, remember, is that the v-stitches are made using the dc2tog stitch (the double crochet 2 together).  This method has been addicting to me and I love using it as often as I can!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue.

Let's get started!

Supplies

2 or more colors of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn (I used 3: White, Turqua, and Spring Green)
I hook ( 5.5 mm)
tapestry needle

Special Stitches:

Dc2tog: Begin a dc in on space and pull up yarn through two loops only (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook through next chain 1 space. Yarn over, pull up through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops.

Regular Wobbly V-Stitch is made by a series of 2 dc2togs: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the SAME chain 1 space and complete it in the next.

Increase Wobbly V-Stitch: To increase, we will crochet a chain 1, dc, chain 1 between Wobbly V-Stitches.  So: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. In the same space, chain 1, DC, chain 1, begin your next dc2tog and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  The Increase Wobbly V-Stitch looks like a W.

Gauge:

7 dc2tog and 6 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches

Pattern (Teen and Adult size):

Row 1 (Color 1): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* six times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have seven chain 1 spaces. Fasten off.

Row 2 (Color 2): In this round we are going to crochet an Increase Wobbly V-stitch in each chain 1 space.  Remember that because we are doing the wobbly v-stitches, half of the v will begin in a chain 1 space and end in the next. 

With new color, begin a standing dc2tog in a chain 1 space, complete in the next space. In this same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog in the same space. Repeat around. Complete the last dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as the standing dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. (7 Increase Wobbly V-Stitches will appear to be 14 V-Stitches = 14 chain 1 spaces)

Row 3 (Color 3): In this round, we will alternate increase Wobbly V-Stitch in one chain 1 space and regular wobbly v-stitch in the next. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any of the Increase Wobbly V-Stitches.  It is important to the way we will be increasing that you start here.  Since the increase looks like a W, you will start in the left opening of the W.  Complete your dc2tog in the next space.  *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * around.  (You should have alternating increases and regular wobbly Vs in each chain 1 space around.) Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off.

The standing dc2tog goes in the left chain 1 space of an increase wobbly.

Row 4 (Color 1): In this round we will follow this pattern: Increase wobbly, regular wobbly, regular wobbly. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any Increase Wobbly from row 3 and complete in the next space.   *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around.  Chain 1, and join to the top of the first dc2tog. 

Take a minute and measure the diameter of your circle.  For an adult hat, you want your diameter to be 6.5 to 7 inches.  For a child's hat, you want your diameter to be 5-6 inches.  If  you need to increase more, for each new increase row, you will do the following:

Increase, regular, regular, regular
Increase, regular, regular, regular, regular
Increase, regular, regular, regular, regular, regular

Do you see it?  One more regular wobble V for each row.  This is just like any circle you crochet.  You increase the number of regular stitches as the circle gets bigger and bigger.

My hat, for an adult, needs one more row of increases.

Row 5 (Color 2): Again, remember to begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any Increase Wobbly from row 4.  Then, continuing the pattern of increase, regular, regular, regular around.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog.

When you have reached the diameter you want, you will stop increasing.  For the purpose of this pattern, I am going to call this Row 6, but it is really which ever row you are on.

Row 6 (no increases): With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in any chain 1 space. and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  *Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around. Your final dc2tog should end in the same space as the first dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Row 7 - 13: With alternating colors, repeat row 6.

Make sure to measure your hat to make certain it is long enough.  An adult sized hat should be about 9 inches from crown to ear.  Add more rows if necessary.

Finish: You can use any border you like.  For this one, I am using what I call a faux picot crossover stitch.  I love this stitch and I use it for almost all of my blankets!  It looks much more challenging that it actually is!

Faux Picot Crossover Border:

With a new color, make a standing single crochet in any chain 1 space.  Chain 2.  Working from front to back, insert your hook into the unworked chain 1 space to the right of the space you began.  Yarn over and pull through the stitch to the front.  Yarn over and pull through both loops.  *Move to the next unworked chain 1 space to the left.  SC in that space.  Chain 2. Insert your hook back into the previous space. Yarn over and pull through the stitch to the front.  Yarn over and pull through both loops.* Repeat from * to * around. You will end by beginning your last faux picot crossover in the first chain 1 space (it will have on stitch in it). Complete the crossover and slip stitch  into the first sc. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends carefully.


Note: I made a ridiculous number of hats to make sure this pattern worked out nicely.  However, if you find that your hat is too big or too loose, you can start your first round by doing the following:
Row 1 (Color 1): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* five times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have SIX chain 1 spaces. Fasten off. Continue with the pattern as it reads.  You will have multiples of 6 in each row instead of multiples of 7 as my pattern calls for. 

I'm seriously in love with this pattern and I hope you are as well! Enjoy!

Want to make a blanket that goes with this hat?

Wobbly Rectangles Blanket: http://www.twinstitches.com/2015/01/wobbly-rectangles-blanket-free-pattern.html

Wobbly Squares Blanket: http://www.twinstitches.com/2015/01/wobbly-squares-blanket-free-pattern-tw.html

Lacey Trellis Poncho - Spiral Version - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Have you tried the original Lacey Trellis Poncho?  I've made five since I posted the pattern.  They are so ridiculously quick to make!  I even entered one in the community art show at school.

I've been wanting to try to make the Lacey Trellis in the round for quite some time, but never had time to sit down and try it.  Last week, I decided to see what I could come up with.  In my mind, it looked just like the Lacey Trellis above, only the trellis was vertical instead of horizontal. Silly me forgot that the trellis only happens because you work the pattern back and forth..  As I started the pattern, I worked in the round without a join.  The result was this amazing continuous spiral.  What is awesome is the amazing spiral pattern that started because I was working in the round!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue! 

Lacy Trellis Spiral Poncho

Supplies:

2 skeins Red Heart Love yarn {see note at end if you would like to use a different weight of yarn}
K hook {see note at end if you would like to use a different hook}
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Stitches Used:

chain
single crochet (SC)
half double crochet (HDC)
double crochet (DC)

Special Notes:

* For the  rows 2-8, the chain 2 does NOT count as an HDC.
At the end of each of the first 8 rows, join to the top of the first stitch and continue in the round.

Before you begin your poncho, you need to decide whether you would like it to hang off your shoulders or would like it to stay on top of both shoulders.  I made this poncho for a friend, but when I made one for me, I measured the distance between my bra straps and doubled it to find my starting chain length.   Starting chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1.

Pattern:

{As written, this pattern will fit a women's size large or extra large.  To make another size, see pattern notes below.}

Chain 81, slip stitch to join. Be careful not to twist.
Row 1: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join in the top of the first SC. (80 SC)

Row 2: Chain 2, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join. (80 HDC)

Row 3: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches.*  Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. (88 HDC)

Row 4: Chain 2, 2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (96 HDC)

Row 5: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (104 HDC)

Row 6: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (112 HDC)

Row 7-8: Chain 2, 1 HDC in each stitch around. (112 stitches)
*Note this row MUST be a multiple of 6 stitches + 4.  (For example, 64, 88, 112, 136, or 160)  If you see that you need to continue to increase, make sure that your final row is a multiple of 6 stitches plus 4.

Begin the Trellis:
The trellis is crocheted in the round, so when you come back to the first chain 3, you will continue the pattern into row 2 of the trellis.

Trellis Row 1:  *Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, 3 DC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.  The last set of stitches in the first row of the trellis will be a chain 3.  You will still have two stitches between the last sc and the beginning chain 3. Continue the pattern by crocheting 3 DC in the beginning chain 3.

From that point forward, continue with this pattern: *Chain 3, SC in the top of first DC in the next 3 DC cluster. Chain 3, 3 DC in the next chain 3 space. *  Repeat from * to *. 

Continue the spiral trellis pattern until your piece has 20-24 rows of trellis.  If you would like, you can continue longer than this, but 20-24 rows will result in a piece that ends just below your elbows.

End with a SC in the top of the first DC of a 3 DC cluster and a slip stitch in the second DC.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sizing Notes:  

This pattern should fit most adult women sizes L-XL using Red Heart with Love yarn and a K hook.   If you would like to use a different yarn or hook size, you will need to determine the correct number of chains to begin.  To determine your number of starting chains, you will need to measure the distance from one shoulder to the other and double that distance.  Your starting chain should be that length and follow the multiple of 8 + 1 rule for the beginning chain.

If you need to make the pattern smaller or larger, your initial chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1 stitches.

Rows 1-6 should be multiples of 8 with an increase of 8 stitches each row. Here's how to calculate where to make your increases.  Take your multiple of 8, for example 96, and divide by 8 = 12.  Your repeat pattern will take place over 12 stitches.  You will crochet 2 HDC into the first stitch and 1 HDC into the next 11. This will be your repeat.  If your multiple of 8 is 120, 120 divided by 8 is 15, so your repeat pattern will take place over 15 stitches.  2 DC in the first, and 1 DC in each of the next 14.

Rows 7-8 should be a multiple of  6 stitches + 4 stitches.  NO increases.

Here is a chart of how it works:

			Original
Starting multiple of 8	32	56	80	104	128
Row 3 (increase)	40	64	88	112	136
Row 4 (increase)	48	72	96	120	144
Row 5 (increase)	56	80	104	128	152
Row 6 (before sprial)	64	88	112	136	160

Wobbly Rectangles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love a square blanket, but sometimes it is helpful to have your blanket more the shape of a rectangle.  The dc2tog stitch can be used to create the Wobbly Rectangles Blanket!

Click here to add this project to your Ravelry queue!

 

What size to make?

Before we get started, you need to decide what size blanket you would like to make.  The size of your blanket will determine your starting chain for your rectangles.

Baby blanket: 30 x 36 inches = Starting chain of 20.

Lapghan:  36 x 48 inches = Starting chain of 38.

For any other dimensions, calculate the difference between your desired length and width.  For example, the baby blanket is 30 x 36.  36-30 is 6 inches.  Using a J hook and worsted weight yarn, you need 3 chains for each inch, + 2 extra chains for the start.  3 x 6 = 18, + 2 is 20 chains.

You may need to adjust the number of chains based on the type of yarn you are using, the size hook you are using, and the tension of your crochet.  Your starting chain must be a multiple of 3 + 2 to work.  To be certain you are okay, measure your chain as close to difference of your dimensions as possible, but confirm it is a multiple of 3 + 2. If you are slightly under, please do not worry.  It will still work!

Supplies:

3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Spring Green, and Turqua
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:

Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.

Pattern: (baby blanket)

*For a photo tutorial of the first two rows, click here.

Row 1: Chain 20.  In the fourth chain (counts as 1 dc) from the hook, begin dc2tog. (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops only).  Skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in next stitch (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops, yarn over, draw through remaining 3 loops).  Chain 1.  Begin next dc2tog in same stitch. Continue across the chain, ending with the completion of the final dc2tog in the last stitch. *Chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch.* Repeat * to * three times. Continue your stitches along the bottom side of the chain.  Begin dc2tog in the same stitch, skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in the next. Dc2tog across to the end.  In the last stitch, complete the last dc2tog, *chain 1, dc *.  Repeat from * to * two times. Chain 1, join to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off. (8 dcs, 16 dc2togs, 24 chain 1 spaces)

* I'm working on my charting skills!  ;)

Row 2: Color B, Join new color in the chain 1 space just to the left of the chain 3 from Row 1, using the standing DC method, but only drawing up through the first two loops.  Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin dc2tog in the same space and continue pattern across.  When you reach the end, you will see three tree chain 1 spaces in the rounded end from row 1.  In the first chain 1 space, create a corner cluster (end of last dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, begin new dc2tog, all in the same space). Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space.  Continue with the dc2tog pattern across the side.  When you reach the other end, create a corner cluster in the first of the three chain 1 spaces as the end. Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space. Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your standing dc2tog. Chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog. (24 dc2tog, 8 dc, 32 chain 1)

Row 2 begins to make the rectangular shape.  I really need to work on my charting skills!

Row 3: Color C, join new color in the chain 1 space, you just completed from Row 2 using the standing dc2tog method.  Dc2tog across, crocheting a corner cluster in each of the corner spaces and the dc2togs across each side.  Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your join, chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog. (32 dc2tog, 8 dc, 40 chain 1)

Closeup of the first four rows of my completed blanket

Rows 4 - 24: Alternate colors, repeating row 3.

Note: If you decide to make any other dimensions for this blanket, you will need to continue to repeat row 3 until you achieve the desired length and width.  For the featured blanket picture, I made a lapghan that measures 36 x 48 inches and it was a total of 27 rows.

Fasten off and weave in ends!

Lapghan sized blanket created with beginning chain of 38.  36 by 48 inches

You can add any border you like, but I actually like mine without one!

Enjoy!

Cross Your Heart Infinity Scarf - Free Pattern

I hope you are enjoying the Cross Your Heart water bottle cover pattern!  I just love the Cross Your Heart stitch and I've been experimenting with ways to wear it.  I have a couple of patterns in the works and I've decided to share one of them with you.

Cross Your Heart Infinity scarf

Supplies:

Red Heart with Love yarn (Iris)
K Hook (6.5 mm)
tapestry needle

Pattern:

Chain 142 (Child), 166 (adult), or a multiple of 3 plus 1. Carefully join to the first chain to complete the loop (Or, if you are like me, you can wait to join until the end of Row 1.  I'm nervous about twisting the chain!)

Row 1: HDC in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Slip stitch to the top of the first HDC to join.  (If you did not join the beginning chain, you can do so now using your tapestry needle or wait until the end.)

Row 2: Chain 5 (counts as 1 DC and 2 chains. Skip back one stitch. HDC in the previous stitch (1 Cross cluster created). * Skip forward past 2 empty stitches.  1 DC in the next stitch. Chain 2. HDC back into the previous skipped stitch. * Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 2 from the first cross cluster to join.

Row 3: Chain 5 (counts as 1 DC and 2 chains). 1 HDC into the chain 2 space in the previous cross cluster (back to the right). Skip forward to the next empty chain 2 space. (This is the next chain 2 space past the one you crocheted the original DC in).   1 DC, chain 2 in that space.  1 HDC back into the chain 2 space in the previous cross cluster.  Repeat from * to * around, ending with a DC into the chain 2 space from the first cluster, chain 2,  1 HDC back into the previous chain 2.  Slip stitch into the top of the chain 2 from the previous cross cluster to join.

Rows 4-10: Repeat Row 3.  You can also continue to repeat Row 3 if you would like a thicker scarf.

Row 11: Chain 1. 2 HDC in each Chain 2 space and 1 HDC in the space between.  Repeat around.  Join to the top of the first HDC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Depending on your tension, you may need to block your scarf.  Never fear!  A bit of cold water and a towel will help you to shape your scarf.

If you like this pattern, please add it to your Ravelry queue!  Click here:  Cross Your Heart Infinity Scarf on Ravelry.

I hope you enjoy this scarf as much as I love mine!

Grace's Infinity Scarf for Nana

My mom bought some truly gorgeous yarn from the Serenity collection by Deborah Norville. This color is Red Bayou.  It has these great reds, roses, greens and browns in it and it has this velvety look to it.  It reminds me of vintage fabric.

I used my Grace's Infinity Scarf pattern, but had to adjust a bit because this Serenity yarn is a bulky weight instead of super bulky like the Hometown. The bulky weight uses an L hook.

Grace's Infinity Scarf - Free Pattern

Have you ever had a Secret Snowflake? Secret Snowflakes are kind of like Secret Santas.  In pondering how to end our school year, my homeroom got together and drew names to give gifts to one another.  We decided to make it last a while, but wanted to limit the gift commitment as everyone is in seventh grade.  On the first day, we wrote a note to our Secret Snowflake.  On the second day, we gave a treat.  On the third day, we gave a gift.

My Secret Snowflake's name is Grace.  She is 13 years old and when I think of her, I normally picture an athletic person.  She is not a girly-girl in the slightest. However, I was suprised to discover that her favorite color is pink!  So, when I started to picture the gift I would give to her, I knew it was going to be pink.  I decided to crochet her an infinity scarf.  My students are forever asking if I will make them something, so I figured Grace would love this and she did!

Whenever I would like to make a scarf for someone, I tend to go with bulky or super bulky yarn.  I love the quickness and beauty of the large stitches.  My favorite patterns are ones that Fiber Flux dreams up and usually, my scarves are heavily inspired by things she creates.  This scarf was inspired by a stitch pattern she uses in her Pavement scarf.

A note about my infinity scarves:  I used to start my beginning chain and join the two ends so that I could simply crochet in the round for my infinity scarves.  However, I found that my chain sometimes twisted and it left me with a twisted mess of a scarf.  Now, I start my chain and crochet the first row as if I were going to make a blanket or a regular scarf.  At the end of the first row, instead of turning, I join the two ends with a slip stitch at the top of the first stitch in the row and then continue from there.  At the end, I use a tapestry needle to use the beginning tail to sew the bottom ends together.  Viola!  beginning disappears!

6 rows and 2 skeins of Super Bulky yarn!

Super Quick Infinity Scarf for Grace

Supplies:

2 skeins Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky yarn
N Hook
tapestry needle.

The pattern:

Beginning Chain:  136, Grace may be 13, but she is already taller than I am.  136 was a perfect number to allow her to wrap the scarf twice.  It fell just below her waist before she wrapped it.
(You can make this as long or short as you like.  It has to be a multiple of 3, plus 4.)

Row 1: HDC in the third chain from the hook and in each stitch to the end.  (134 HDCs).  Using a slip stitch, join the last HDC to the top of the first HDC.

Row 2: Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 Ch).  1 DC in the same stitch. * Skip 2 chains and crochet 1 DC, chain 1, 1 DC in the same stitch*.  Repeat from * to * around.  Skip 2 chains. To join, slip stitch in the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  (44 V stitches)

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2.

Row 6: Chain 2.  *2 HDCs in each chain 1 space (top of V) and 1 HDC in the next.* Repeat around. Fasten off.

See?  Totally easy peasy.  I finished mine in an hour and a half and Grace loved it.

I did not get any pictures of Grace wearing the scarf.  These are my test pictures last night.  Needless to say, she put it on right away and wore it the rest of the day.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Rebecca Cowl

Cowls are really popular right now.  I've made at least 10 in the last few weeks.  Cowl patterns are best when they are simple and use chunky yarns.  There is something about the texture of a chunky yarn that is beautiful and warm at the same time.  Perfect!

One of my favorite patterns is a blanket pattern.  I've used it for hats and scarves as well as blankets.  The other day, I decided to try and see if it would work for a cowl.  Look what I came up with! The Rebecca Cowl.

The Rebecca Cowl with 4 rows.

Front Post stitches facing out.

Front Post stitches facing in.

 It is flexible in that you can elect to make it longer or shorter and wider or thinner depending on your preferences.  You can also use bulky yarn or worsted. It really is up to you!

The Rebecca Cowl Pattern is now available for free using the link below. It has pictures to help you create the pattern.  You will love it!

Click here to get your copy of the Rebecca Cowl Pattern.
Or here.

Toasty Warm Ponytail Hat

It's my very first pattern for sale!

I designed the Toasty Warm Ponytail Hat for my sister, Kristen, who wanted a beanie she would wear with a ponytail when she went for a run or exercising.  It is worked in one piece and is adjustable.  It uses snuggly bulky weight yarn and is an easy pattern for beginners and more experienced crocheters.

The hat is adjustable and allows for different heights of ponytail.

Looks like a regular beanie in the front and on the sides.

It comes in adult and child sizes.

Would you like to make the ponytail hat?  You can find it in my new Ravelry store!
Or, you can buy it by clicking this button!
 
 
I hope you have fun making it!