Wobbly Baby Blanket and Hat | Tw-In Stitches

I hope you are enjoying the Wobbly patterns!  Today, I'd like to share a baby blanket and hat I made using the Wobbly Squares blanket pattern and the Full Wobbly hat pattern.

The blanket was made using the Wobbly Squares {without changing colors} blanket pattern.  I used an I hook and Caron One Pound yarn in Lilac.  You can find the pattern here. To make this blanket, I followed the pattern and crocheted a total of 27 rows.

The border is very simple:
Border Row 1: SC in each chain 1 space, *chain 1, SC in next.* Repeat from * to * around, crocheting a SC, chain 2, SC in each of the corner spaces. Slip stitch into first SC to finish. Slip stitch into next chain 1 space.
Border Row 2: Chain 1, SC in the same space.  *Chain 4. Skip (one SC, chain 1, one SC) and SC in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to *, In each corner, SC, chain 2, SC.  Slip stitch to first SC to finish. Slip stitch into next chain 4 space.
Border Row 3: In each chain 4 space, 2 HDC, 1 DC, 2 HDC. Skip all SC from previous round.  In each corner, crochet 3 HDC.  Slip stitch to first HDC to finish. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The hat was made using the remaining yarn and the Full Wobbly Hat pattern. You can find the pattern for teens and adults here.

To make the hat for newborn size, follow the instructions for the first 4 rows. Do not increase after row 4.  For rows 5-9, follow the instructions for row 6 (no increases).  For row 10, SC in each chain 1 space, then chain 1 around.

The flower is inspired by one of my favorite flower patterns ever.  You can find it on Cre8tion Crochet. I did make two changes. First, instead of single crochets to make the base, I used half double crochets.  That is why it is so flat.  Second, instead of finishing each round with a slip stitch, I simply started the next row by crocheting into the first stitch.  It creates a nice spiral effect.

I'm working on another baby blanket using cotton yarn in a great hot pink, pink, and lime green variegated pattern.  It's awesome!

I hope you enjoy these patterns!

Wobbly Squares Blanket {without changing colors} | Free Pattern by Tw-In Stitches

So what happens if you really like the Wobbly Squares design, but really do not want to change colors?  No worries. I can help! It is super easy and it completely hides the join.

Supplies:

Worsted Weight yarn
hook size should be one size larger than the yarn calls for
tapestry needle to fasten off

Stitches:

Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Double crochet together (dc2tog)
Slip Stitch
Chain

Pattern:

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.

Row 1: Using a magic circle, chain 2, then 1 double crochet (DC). This counts as one dc2tog. *Chain 1, dc2tog.* Repeat from * to * 6 times. Chain 1. Join to the top of the first DC. Slip stitch into the first chain 1 space. (1 DC, 8 chain spaces, 7 dc2tog)

Chart of Row 1

Join to top of first DC.

Slip Stitch into chain 1 space.

Row 2: Chain 1, 1 half double crochet (HDC) in the same space. In the next chain 1 space, DC and chain 1.

Chain 1, hdc in same space.

DC in next chain 1 space.

To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Yarn over, insert hook into same chain 1 space, yarn over, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1.

First V and first corner completed.

Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the DC. Slip stitch into the next chain 1 space. (to make sure this is correct, you should appear to have four corners and 4 sides with a V-stitch in the middle)

Row 2 (Not the best chart, but I did my best!)

Row 3: To continue in the same color, chain 1, HDC in the same space.  DC in the next chain 1 space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Each new corner will always be in the chain 1 space between the 2 double crochets of the previous corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the first DC.  Slip stitch into the next chain 1 space.

Rows 4-and beyond: Continue the pattern as directed for each additional row.  Remember: to continue using a single color, you have to slip stitch into the next chain 1 space to after you have joined to complete a row. then chain 1 and HDC in the same space, DC in the next and chain 1. After that, the wobbly pattern continues.

I'm currently working on a blanket using this pattern and will share it with you as soon as it is completed.  I do have one other one I made using this method and Ice Magic Light yarn.  This variegated yarn created a very fun effect!

Sedona Wobbly Stripes Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love buying variegated yarn.  It always looks gorgeous on the skein, but once I start crocheting with it, I rarely like the pattern that results.  That is, until I started using a V-stitch pattern with my Loops & Threads Charisma yarn! Charisma is a bulky acrylic yarn and calls for a 6.5 mm hook. A few months ago, there was a crazy sale and I got 10 skeins of Charisma yarn in the Toadstool colorway for $1.99 a skein.  I started experimenting with the Wobbly V-stitch in horizontal strips and I really like how it came out.  Honestly, I think this pattern would be great with any variegated yarn.

When I shared a picture of this blanket with my friends on Facebook, it was unanimous that the blanket reminded them of colors in the desert.  Several said it reminded them of the colors in Sedona, Arizona.  The Toadstool colorway does look like a painted desert and the wobbly v-stitches help highlight each color.  I decided to make a baby blanket out of this amazing yarn especially for a coworker who spends the majority of her time outdoors. My favorite part is that the variegated yarn changes color on its own!

Sedona Wobbly Stripes Blanket Pattern

Supplies:

6 to 7 skeins Loops & Threads Charisma Yarn in Toadstool
K (6.5 mm) hook
tapestry needle

Stitches (US terms):

ch - chain stitch
DC - Double crochet
DC2TOG: double crochet together

Pattern:

Chain 80. (This will make a receiving blanket size.  To make a larger blanket, chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.)

Row 1: DC in the fifth chain from the hook.Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same chain, skip one chain, complete the dc2tog in the next chain. Chain 1. * Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, crochet one final dc2tog without skipping a chain between the dcs. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the chain 3 from the first row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 3: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Chain 3 and turn.

Rows 4-42: The rest of the blanket is super simple!  Just repeat row 3.  If you would like your blanket longer, continue row 3.

Border: I added a single crochet border around the entire blanket, but you can use any border you like.  You could even leave the blanket without a border!

Wobbly Circles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Oh, my goodness. It has been two months since I promised you a Wobbly Circles Blanket pattern.  Two months.  It stuns me that my life is so busy! 

You may not know this, but I am a teacher.  In addition to that, I am an assistant director for our summer school program.  As soon as the school year ends, I'm getting summer school up and running.  Add to that all of the excitement two 8-year olds require and I hardly have time to breathe.  I know many of you are in the same boat.  The good news is that I had time this weekend to translate my written pattern into an actual blanket!

So far, we've made a Wobbly Squares Blanket and a Wobbly Rectangles Blanket.  This pattern is for the Wobbly Circles Blanket.  The ironic thing is that as I made this blanket, the larger the circles got, the less they looked like circles and more like a seven sided shape.  The placement of the increases spirals out, but they are still discernible.   By the way, if you are like me and are dying to know what a seven sided shape is called, look no further!  A seven sided shape is called a heptagon. You've learned something new today!

I did something I haven't done before with this blanket: I crocheted it entirely in cotton yarn.  I had a ton of Peaches & Creme yarn that I had not used and decided to see what it would do as a blanket.  I was a little anxious.  I've generally only used this yarn for water bottle covers, mug hugs, and Kindle covers.  I just did not see it as a blanket.  I was pleasantly surprised!  This blanket is so light and lovely.  

Okay, let's get started!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue.

Wobbly Circles Blanket - Free Pattern by Tw-In Stitches

Supplies

2.5 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - White
2.5 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - Bright Chartreuse ("green" throughout pattern)
3 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - Iced Strawberry ("pink" throughout pattern)

H hook ( 5.0 mm)

tapestry needle

Special Stitches:

Dc2tog: Begin a dc in on space and pull up yarn through two loops only (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook through next chain 1 space. Yarn over, pull up through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops.


Regular Wobbly V-Stitch is made by a series of 2 dc2togs: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the SAME chain 1 space and complete it in the next.


Increase Wobbly V-Stitch: To increase, we will crochet a chain 1, dc, chain 1 between Wobbly V-Stitches.  So: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. In the same space, chain 1, DC, chain 1, begin your next dc2tog and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  The Increase Wobbly V-Stitch looks like a W.

Important Note about increases:

The easiest way to keep track of where the increase wobbly stitches go is to make certain they always go in the first chain 1 space of the increase wobbly stitch (W) from the previous round.  If you do this, you will always know when you should be increasing and when it should be a regular wobbly stitch.  Here is a sample of what I mean (pictures are from the Full Wobbly Hat):

Gauge:

7 dc2tog and 6 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches
Completed blanket is 40 inches across.

Pattern (baby blanket size):

Row 1 (Pink): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* six times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have seven chain 1 spaces. Fasten off and weave in ends.  Weave as you go!  You'll thank me later!


Row 2 (White): In this round we are going to crochet an Increase Wobbly V-stitch in each chain 1 space.  Remember that because we are doing the wobbly v-stitches, half of the v will begin in a chain 1 space and end in the next.


With new color, begin a standing dc2tog in a chain 1 space, complete in the next space. In this same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog in the same space. Repeat around. Complete the last dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as the standing dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends. (7 Increase Wobbly V-Stitches will appear to be 14 V-Stitches = 14 chain 1 spaces)


Row 3 (Green): In this round, we will alternate Increase Wobbly V-Stitch in one chain 1 space and Regular Wobbly V-Stitch in the next. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any of the Increase Wobbly V-Stitches.  It is important to the way we will be increasing that you start here.  Since the increase looks like a W, you will start in the left opening of the W.  Complete your dc2tog in the next space.  *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * around.  (You should have alternating increases and regular wobbly Vs in each chain 1 space around.) Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Row 4 (Pink): In this round we will follow this pattern: Increase wobbly, regular wobbly, regular wobbly.

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of any Increase Wobbly from row 3 and complete in the next space.   *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around.  Chain 1, and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Row 5 (White): Again, remember to begin a standing dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of any Increase Wobbly from row 4.  Then, continuing the pattern of increase, regular, regular, regular around.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Remember, increases will always go in the first chain 1 space of any W.  All the rest are regular wobbly V-stitches.


Row 6 (Green): From here out, you will continue by starting the first dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of an Increase Wobbly V-Stitch, increasing in the first chain 1 of the increase in the row before, Regular Wobbly V-Stitches in the rest of the chain 1 spaces.

Increase, regular 4 times. Repeat.

Row 7 (Pink): Increase, regular 5 times. Repeat.

Row 8 (White): Increase, regular 6 times. Repeat.

Do you see how it works?

Rows 9-27: Continue alternating colors each row following the pattern.

Row 28 (Pink): No increases in this round.  Regular Wobbly V-Stitches in each chain 1 space around. If you are going to use the same color like I did, slip stitch to the top of the first dc2tog and slip stitch into the next chain 1 space.

Row 29 (Pink): I used a scallop border for my blanket and I love it!  It is easy to do and is completed entirely in the chain 1 spaces from Row 28.

In the chain 1 space from row 28, chain 1, 1 sc in the same space. In the next chain 1 space, 5 dcs.  *In the next chain 1 space, 1 sc. In the next chain 1 space, 5 dcs.*  Repeat from * to * around, ending with a slip stitch in the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Making a larger sized blanket:

To make your blanket larger, continue from row 27 with the increase/regular pattern.  When you have reached the diameter you desire, crochet one row of Regular Wobbly V-Stitches and finish with the border you desire.

Wobbly Rectangles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love a square blanket, but sometimes it is helpful to have your blanket more the shape of a rectangle.  The dc2tog stitch can be used to create the Wobbly Rectangles Blanket!

Click here to add this project to your Ravelry queue!

 

What size to make?

Before we get started, you need to decide what size blanket you would like to make.  The size of your blanket will determine your starting chain for your rectangles.

Baby blanket: 30 x 36 inches = Starting chain of 20.

Lapghan:  36 x 48 inches = Starting chain of 38.

For any other dimensions, calculate the difference between your desired length and width.  For example, the baby blanket is 30 x 36.  36-30 is 6 inches.  Using a J hook and worsted weight yarn, you need 3 chains for each inch, + 2 extra chains for the start.  3 x 6 = 18, + 2 is 20 chains.

You may need to adjust the number of chains based on the type of yarn you are using, the size hook you are using, and the tension of your crochet.  Your starting chain must be a multiple of 3 + 2 to work.  To be certain you are okay, measure your chain as close to difference of your dimensions as possible, but confirm it is a multiple of 3 + 2. If you are slightly under, please do not worry.  It will still work!

Supplies:

3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Spring Green, and Turqua
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:

Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.

Pattern: (baby blanket)

*For a photo tutorial of the first two rows, click here.

Row 1: Chain 20.  In the fourth chain (counts as 1 dc) from the hook, begin dc2tog. (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops only).  Skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in next stitch (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops, yarn over, draw through remaining 3 loops).  Chain 1.  Begin next dc2tog in same stitch. Continue across the chain, ending with the completion of the final dc2tog in the last stitch. *Chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch.* Repeat * to * three times. Continue your stitches along the bottom side of the chain.  Begin dc2tog in the same stitch, skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in the next. Dc2tog across to the end.  In the last stitch, complete the last dc2tog, *chain 1, dc *.  Repeat from * to * two times. Chain 1, join to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off. (8 dcs, 16 dc2togs, 24 chain 1 spaces)

* I'm working on my charting skills!  ;)

Row 2: Color B, Join new color in the chain 1 space just to the left of the chain 3 from Row 1, using the standing DC method, but only drawing up through the first two loops.  Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin dc2tog in the same space and continue pattern across.  When you reach the end, you will see three tree chain 1 spaces in the rounded end from row 1.  In the first chain 1 space, create a corner cluster (end of last dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, begin new dc2tog, all in the same space). Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space.  Continue with the dc2tog pattern across the side.  When you reach the other end, create a corner cluster in the first of the three chain 1 spaces as the end. Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space. Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your standing dc2tog. Chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog. (24 dc2tog, 8 dc, 32 chain 1)

Row 2 begins to make the rectangular shape.  I really need to work on my charting skills!

Row 3: Color C, join new color in the chain 1 space, you just completed from Row 2 using the standing dc2tog method.  Dc2tog across, crocheting a corner cluster in each of the corner spaces and the dc2togs across each side.  Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your join, chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog. (32 dc2tog, 8 dc, 40 chain 1)

Closeup of the first four rows of my completed blanket

Rows 4 - 24: Alternate colors, repeating row 3.

Note: If you decide to make any other dimensions for this blanket, you will need to continue to repeat row 3 until you achieve the desired length and width.  For the featured blanket picture, I made a lapghan that measures 36 x 48 inches and it was a total of 27 rows.

Fasten off and weave in ends!

Lapghan sized blanket created with beginning chain of 38.  36 by 48 inches

You can add any border you like, but I actually like mine without one!

Enjoy!

Wobbly Squares Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I have a confession to make. I'm not a fan of granny squares.  For some reason I have yet to figure out, they annoy me.  The first few rows are fine, but the never ending grannies just don't do anything for me.  However, square blankets fascinate me.  I love the idea of working in rounds that join and color change effects are equally satisfying.  Last year, one of my favorite blankets I made was based on the idea to create V stitches using dc2tog, the double crochet together stitch.  Instead of the traditional double crochet - chain- double crochet, the dc2tog V stitch blanket creates the Vs based on the side by side dc2togs.  It's really cool.  What is even better is the happiness that comes from making those darn dc2togs!  They are addicting and I find myself staying up later and later working on those blankets.

I saw a different blanket created by a designer using this method of  straight rows of V stitches, but I wanted to try my hand at making a square blanket using the dc2tog stitch.  I am so in love with what I came I came up with and I hope you like it, too! You can use this pattern with any weight of yarn, but I recommend going up a hook size from the one on the skein wrapper. It makes the blanket stretchy, luxurious, and lacy.  You could also use the hook size recommended by the yarn and you will get a denser blanket. This blanket would also be great with scrap yarn!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!

Supplies:

3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Perfect Pink, and Petal Pink
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:

Magic Circle
Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.

Pattern:

** Click here for a photo tutorial of the first 3 rows. **

Row 1: Using Color 1, crochet a magic circle, chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).  Crochet one dc2tog, then chain 1. Repeat from * to * seven more times.  Join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. Close magic circle.

In each of the following rows, all stitches will be worked in the chain 1 spaces of the previous row.

Row 2: Using Color 2, using the standing double crochet method, join the new color in one of the chain 1 spaces, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the standing dc2tog. Fasten off.

 {You may choose to weave in your ends as you go or leave them until the end.}

Row 3: Using Color 3, join using the standing double crochet method in any space but a corner.  Remember to only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the standing dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Rows 4-27: Continue the pattern as directed in Row 3 for each additional row.  Alternate colors so that your wobbly squares are visible.

Finished size at gauge: about 36 inches.

I chose not to add a border to my blanket, but feel free to add one to yours.

New blanket from my favorite pattern

My friend, Caryn, has patiently waited her turn for a blanket.  She chose the best colors; fun lively colors that reflect farmhouse vintage life.  Using 6 skeins of Red Heart Super yarn, I created this massive blanket for Caryn to snuggle under during cooler summer nights.

Scalloped edging!

If you are interested in creating something similar, I used my Lacy Trellis Blanket pattern in these Red Heart Super Saver Solids:
White
Pumpkin
Gold
Tea Leaf
Turquoise
Cherry Red

I can't wait to get this into the mail to Caryn!

Lacy Trellis Blanket - Free Pattern

The Lacy Trellis Blanket was obvious after so many ponchos.

The beauty of this blanket is that it uses less yarn than a granny stripe.  I finished this blanket (a twin size blanket) with 6 skeins of Red Heart Super Saver.  That includes the scallop border I designed on the vertical edges!

Because this blanket is so open, I used the Double Knot method when I changed colors.  It was miraculous!  With a little trial and error, I managed to get the join to completely hide my join knots.

Supplies: 

Worsted weight yarn (Red Heart Super Saver)
I Hook
**Notice I'm not including a tapestry needle.  No need with the Double Knot method!

Pattern: 

Chain: a multiple of 8 plus 5 more chains.  I started mine with 181 chains.

Row 1:  Single crochet (SC) in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn.  (180 SC)

Row 2:  Chain 3.  Skip 3 SC and double crochet (DC) 3 times in the next SC. *Chain three, skip 3 SC, and SC in the next SC.  Chain 2, skip 3 SC and DC 3 times in the next SC.*  Repeat from * to * ending with 3 DC in the final stich of the row.  Chain 3 and turn.

Row 3: DC 3 times in the first chain 2 space from the previous row. *Chain 3, SC in the top of the first DC in the next cluster.  Chain 2, 3 DC in the next chain 2 space.* Repeat from * to * across. Chain 3. Turn.

Row 4: Repeat Row 3

Continue repeating Row 3 until your piece measures your desired height.

Final row:  To make the end of the blanket match the beginning, we are going to do a row of solid stitches.  In the last row, you finished with a 3 DC cluster. Chain 1, SC in each of the DCs in the cluster.  1 HDC in the chain 2 space.  1 HDC in the top of the SC.  2 HDC in the chain 3 space.  Continue across with 1 SC in each of the 3 DCs, 1 HDC in the chain 2 space, 1 HDC in the SC, 2 HDC in the chain 3 space across. If you find that this row is starting to ripple, you may need to only crochet 1 HDC in the chain 3 space.  It really depends on your tension.

Finish with your preference of border!  My scallop border on the sides can be found in the comments below.

Upside down, but this shows the scallop border I added to the vertical sides.  No border was used on the horizontal sides.

Work in Progress - Vintage Color Inspired Blanket

I've been working on two separate patterns for ponchos using the Lacy Trellis pattern but the math is being elusive and annoying.  To take a break, I decided to work on something I promised a friend a very long time ago: her very own blanket.  She told me that she had very specific colors in mind: vintage farmhouse colors.  I have no idea what that means, but to her that means avocado green, pumpkin orange, mustard yellow, turquoise, and cherry red.  She left the design to me but told me that she really likes granny squares and ripple blankets.  I decided to go with a hybrid pattern.

Okay, don't hate me.

It's a Lacy Trellis blanket.

I know.

Here's what I have so far.

In reality, the colors are deeper than what this picture shows.  I'm debating whether to keep going in a rainbow pattern or to get a little crazy and mix it up a bit.

Let's turn it on its side and see what it looks like:

I think everyone has a pattern they love, a pattern that gives them lots of pleasure.  This pattern is the one for me.  Maybe it is the chain between the granny clusters that gives the extra space and makes the rows fly by.  I don't know.  It just makes me so very happy!

I'm about 35 or so rows in with about triple that left to go.  I'll post when it is all done!

I love making baby things!

Just thought I'd share one of my favorite things: a picture of something I made being used!

This is baby Evan.

Evan is the brand new baby boy of one of my former students.  I have a very hard time realizing how old I am. Seeing my former students have babies is quite dramatic for me, but how can I be worried when there is such cuteness in the world?

Evan is sporting a convertible car seat blanket I made for him and a snuggly beanie.  He looks very happy, don't you think?

You can make your own car seat blanket here. Evan's blanket is a big wider and does not have the girly ruffles.  It is straight stripes of happiness.

<3

Grace's Infinity Scarf - Free Pattern

Have you ever had a Secret Snowflake? Secret Snowflakes are kind of like Secret Santas.  In pondering how to end our school year, my homeroom got together and drew names to give gifts to one another.  We decided to make it last a while, but wanted to limit the gift commitment as everyone is in seventh grade.  On the first day, we wrote a note to our Secret Snowflake.  On the second day, we gave a treat.  On the third day, we gave a gift.

My Secret Snowflake's name is Grace.  She is 13 years old and when I think of her, I normally picture an athletic person.  She is not a girly-girl in the slightest. However, I was suprised to discover that her favorite color is pink!  So, when I started to picture the gift I would give to her, I knew it was going to be pink.  I decided to crochet her an infinity scarf.  My students are forever asking if I will make them something, so I figured Grace would love this and she did!

Whenever I would like to make a scarf for someone, I tend to go with bulky or super bulky yarn.  I love the quickness and beauty of the large stitches.  My favorite patterns are ones that Fiber Flux dreams up and usually, my scarves are heavily inspired by things she creates.  This scarf was inspired by a stitch pattern she uses in her Pavement scarf.

A note about my infinity scarves:  I used to start my beginning chain and join the two ends so that I could simply crochet in the round for my infinity scarves.  However, I found that my chain sometimes twisted and it left me with a twisted mess of a scarf.  Now, I start my chain and crochet the first row as if I were going to make a blanket or a regular scarf.  At the end of the first row, instead of turning, I join the two ends with a slip stitch at the top of the first stitch in the row and then continue from there.  At the end, I use a tapestry needle to use the beginning tail to sew the bottom ends together.  Viola!  beginning disappears!

6 rows and 2 skeins of Super Bulky yarn!

Super Quick Infinity Scarf for Grace

Supplies:

2 skeins Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky yarn
N Hook
tapestry needle.

The pattern:

Beginning Chain:  136, Grace may be 13, but she is already taller than I am.  136 was a perfect number to allow her to wrap the scarf twice.  It fell just below her waist before she wrapped it.
(You can make this as long or short as you like.  It has to be a multiple of 3, plus 4.)

Row 1: HDC in the third chain from the hook and in each stitch to the end.  (134 HDCs).  Using a slip stitch, join the last HDC to the top of the first HDC.

Row 2: Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 Ch).  1 DC in the same stitch. * Skip 2 chains and crochet 1 DC, chain 1, 1 DC in the same stitch*.  Repeat from * to * around.  Skip 2 chains. To join, slip stitch in the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  (44 V stitches)

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2.

Row 6: Chain 2.  *2 HDCs in each chain 1 space (top of V) and 1 HDC in the next.* Repeat around. Fasten off.

See?  Totally easy peasy.  I finished mine in an hour and a half and Grace loved it.

I did not get any pictures of Grace wearing the scarf.  These are my test pictures last night.  Needless to say, she put it on right away and wore it the rest of the day.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!