Saturday, January 31, 2015

Update to Lacey Trellis Spiral Poncho Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Hi, everyone!  Welcome to my blog!

I'm writing today to let you know that I posted some major edits to the Lacey Trellis Spiral Poncho Pattern this morning.  Have you ever written something, thought you saved your changes, and then realized that your edits did not save?  That is what I encountered yesterday.  A friend was making the poncho and wrote me a note about an error she saw.  When I went back to look at the pattern, I realized that in my excitement of releasing it, I must not have clicked save when I finalized the pattern.

If you have already started the poncho, I am really sorry about the error!  I hope you will give the pattern another shot and I have great news for you.  The error had to do with the number of counts of stitches you need before you start the trellis portion.  In the original pattern, you needed to have a multiple of 8 plus 4. What you should have is a multiple of 8 total.  To fix your piece, you can add 4 increases somewhere in your last increase row.  I recommend spacing them out.  This should not affect the overall look of the increase rows.

Also, the trellis instructions have been edited.  Please visit the pattern page for more information. 

I apologize for any frustration this may cause you.  I feel terrible about this error and I hope you will give the pattern another chance!



Thursday, January 29, 2015

Lacey Trellis Poncho - Spiral Version - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Have you tried the original Lacey Trellis Poncho?  I've made five since I posted the pattern.  They are so ridiculously quick to make!  I even entered one in the community art show at school.

I've been wanting to try to make the Lacey Trellis in the round for quite some time, but never had time to sit down and try it.  Last week, I decided to see what I could come up with.  In my mind, it looked just like the Lacey Trellis above, only the trellis was vertical instead of horizontal. Silly me forgot that the trellis only happens because you work the pattern back and forth..  As I started the pattern, I worked in the round without a join.  The result was this amazing continuous spiral.  What is awesome is the amazing spiral pattern that started because I was working in the round!


Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue! 

Lacy Trellis Spiral Poncho


Supplies:

2 skeins Red Heart Love yarn {see note at end if you would like to use a different weight of yarn}
K hook {see note at end if you would like to use a different hook}
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Stitches Used:

chain
single crochet (SC)
half double crochet (HDC)
double crochet (DC)

Special Notes:

* For the  rows 2-8, the chain 2 does NOT count as an HDC.
At the end of each of the first 8 rows, join to the top of the first stitch and continue in the round.

Before you begin your poncho, you need to decide whether you would like it to hang off your shoulders or would like it to stay on top of both shoulders.  I made this poncho for a friend, but when I made one for me, I measured the distance between my bra straps and doubled it to find my starting chain length.   Starting chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1.

Pattern:

{As written, this pattern will fit a women's size large or extra large.  To make another size, see pattern notes below.}

Chain 81, slip stitch to join. Be careful not to twist.
Row 1: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join in the top of the first SC. (80 SC)

Row 2: Chain 2, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join. (80 HDC)

Row 3: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches.*  Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. (88 HDC)

Row 4: Chain 2, 2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (96 HDC)

Row 5: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (104 HDC)

Row 6: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (112 HDC)

Row 7-8: Chain 2, 1 HDC in each stitch around. (112 stitches)
*Note this row MUST be a multiple of 8 stitches. If you see that you need to continue to increase, make sure that you only increase 8 stitches total per row.

Begin the Trellis:
The trellis is crocheted in the round, so when you come back to the first chain 3, you will continue the pattern into row 2 of the trellis.



Trellis Row 1:  *Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, 3 DC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.  The last set of stitches in the first row of the trellis will be a chain 3.  You will still have two stitches between the last sc and the beginning chain 3. Continue the pattern by crocheting 3 DC in the beginning chain 3.

From that point forward, continue with this pattern: *Chain 3, SC in the top of first DC in the next 3 DC cluster. Chain 3, 3 DC in the next chain 3 space. *  Repeat from * to *. 

Continue the spiral trellis pattern until your piece has 20-24 rows of trellis.  If you would like, you can continue longer than this, but 20-24 rows will result in a piece that ends just below your elbows.

End with a SC in the top of the first DC of a 3 DC cluster and a slip stitch in the second DC.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sizing Notes:  

This pattern should fit most adult women sizes L-XL using Red Heart with Love yarn and a K hook.   If you would like to use a different yarn or hook size, you will need to determine the correct number of chains to begin.  To determine your number of starting chains, you will need to measure the distance from one shoulder to the other and double that distance.  Your starting chain should be that length and follow the multiple of 8 + 1 rule for the beginning chain.

If you need to make the pattern smaller or larger, your initial chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1 stitches.

Rows 1-6 should be multiples of 8 with an increase of 8 stitches each row. Here's how to calculate where to make your increases.  Take your multiple of 8, for example 96, and divide by 8 = 12.  Your repeat pattern will take place over 12 stitches.  You will crochet 2 HDC into the first stitch and 1 HDC into the next 11. This will be your repeat.  If your multiple of 8 is 120, 120 divided by 8 is 15, so your repeat pattern will take place over 15 stitches.  2 DC in the first, and 1 DC in each of the next 14.

Rows 7-8 should be a multiple of 8 stitches. No increases.




Thursday, January 22, 2015

Wobbly Rectangles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love a square blanket, but sometimes it is helpful to have your blanket more the shape of a rectangle.  The dc2tog stitch can be used to create the Wobbly Rectangles Blanket!


Click here to add this project to your Ravelry queue!

 

What size to make?

Before we get started, you need to decide what size blanket you would like to make.  The size of your blanket will determine your starting chain for your rectangles.

Baby blanket: 30 x 36 inches = Starting chain of 20.

Lapghan:  36 x 48 inches = Starting chain of 38.

For any other dimensions, calculate the difference between your desired length and width.  For example, the baby blanket is 30 x 36.  36-30 is 6 inches.  Using a J hook and worsted weight yarn, you need 3 chains for each inch, + 2 extra chains for the start.  3 x 6 = 18, + 2 is 20 chains.

You may need to adjust the number of chains based on the type of yarn you are using, the size hook you are using, and the tension of your crochet.  Your starting chain must be a multiple of 3 + 2 to work.  To be certain you are okay, measure your chain as close to difference of your dimensions as possible, but confirm it is a multiple of 3 + 2. If you are slightly under, please do not worry.  It will still work!


Supplies:

3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Spring Green, and Turqua
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:


Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.


Pattern: (baby blanket)

*For a photo tutorial of the first two rows, click here.

Row 1: Chain 20.  In the fourth chain (counts as 1 dc) from the hook, begin dc2tog. (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops only).  Skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in next stitch (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops, yarn over, draw through remaining 3 loops).  Chain 1.  Begin next dc2tog in same stitch. Continue across the chain, ending with the completion of the final dc2tog in the last stitch. *Chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch.* Repeat * to * three times. Continue your stitches along the bottom side of the chain.  Begin dc2tog in the same stitch, skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in the next. Dc2tog across to the end.  In the last stitch, complete the last dc2tog, *chain 1, dc *.  Repeat from * to * two times. Chain 1, join to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off. (8 dcs, 16 dc2togs, 24 chain 1 spaces)

* I'm working on my charting skills!  ;)



Row 2: Color B, Join new color in the chain 1 space just to the left of the chain 3 from Row 1, using the standing DC method, but only drawing up through the first two loops.  Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin dc2tog in the same space and continue pattern across.  When you reach the end, you will see three tree chain 1 spaces in the rounded end from row 1.  In the first chain 1 space, create a corner cluster (end of last dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, begin new dc2tog, all in the same space). Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space.  Continue with the dc2tog pattern across the side.  When you reach the other end, create a corner cluster in the first of the three chain 1 spaces as the end. Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space. Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your standing dc2tog. Chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog. (24 dc2tog, 8 dc, 32 chain 1)

Row 2 begins to make the rectangular shape.  I really need to work on my charting skills!



Row 3: Color C, join new color in the chain 1 space, you just completed from Row 2 using the standing dc2tog method.  Dc2tog across, crocheting a corner cluster in each of the corner spaces and the dc2togs across each side.  Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your join, chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog. (32 dc2tog, 8 dc, 40 chain 1)

Closeup of the first four rows of my completed blanket


Rows 4 - 24: Alternate colors, repeating row 3.

Note: If you decide to make any other dimensions for this blanket, you will need to continue to repeat row 3 until you achieve the desired length and width.  For the featured blanket picture, I made a lapghan that measures 36 x 48 inches and it was a total of 27 rows.

Fasten off and weave in ends!

Lapghan sized blanket created with beginning chain of 38.  36 by 48 inches


You can add any border you like, but I actually like mine without one!

Enjoy!