Thursday, January 29, 2015

Lacy Trellis Poncho - Spiral Version - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Have you tried the original Lacey Trellis Poncho?  I've made five since I posted the pattern.  They are so ridiculously quick to make!  I even entered one in the community art show at school.

I've been wanting to try to make the Lacey Trellis in the round for quite some time, but never had time to sit down and try it.  Last week, I decided to see what I could come up with.  In my mind, it looked just like the Lacey Trellis above, only the trellis was vertical instead of horizontal. Silly me forgot that the trellis only happens because you work the pattern back and forth..  As I started the pattern, I worked in the round without a join.  The result was this amazing continuous spiral.  What is awesome is the amazing spiral pattern that started because I was working in the round!


Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue! 

Lacy Trellis Spiral Poncho


Supplies:

2 skeins Red Heart Love yarn {see note at end if you would like to use a different weight of yarn}
K hook {see note at end if you would like to use a different hook}
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Special Notes:

* For the  rows 2-8, the chain 2 does NOT count as an HDC.
At the end of each of the first 8 rows, join to the top of the first stitch and continue in the round.

Pattern:

{As written, this pattern will fit a women's size large or extra large.  To make another size, see pattern notes below.}

Chain 85, slip stitch to join. Be careful not to twist.
Row 1: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join in the top of the first HDC. (84 SC)

Row 2-3: Chain 2, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join. (84 HDC)

Row 4: Chain 2, 1 HDC in the same stitch and in each of the next 3 stitches.  *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. (92 HDC)

Row 5: Chain 2, 1 HDC in the same stitch and in each of the next 3 stitches.  *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (100 HDC)

Row 6: Chain 2,  1 HDC in the same stitch and in each of the next 3 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (108 HDC)


Row 7-8: Chain 2, 1 HDC in each stitch around. (108 stitches)
*Note this row MUST be a multiple of 8 plus 4.

Begin the Trellis:
The trellis is crocheted in the round, so when you come back to the first 3 DC cluster, you will continue the pattern into row 2 of the trellis.



Trellis Row 1:  Chain 3 and 2 DC in the same stitch.  *Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, 3 DC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.  The last set of stitches in the first row of the trellis will be the 3DC cluster. You will still have two stitches between the cluster and the first cluster.  Chain 3, skip the two stitches and SC in the top of the original chain 3.

From that point forward, continue with this pattern: *Chain 3, 3 DC in the chain 3 immediately following the 3 DC cluster in the previous row.  Chain 3, SC in the top of first DC in the next 3 DC cluster.*  Repeat from * to *. 

Continue the spiral trellis pattern until your piece has 20-24 rows of trellis.  If you would like, you can continue longer than this, but 20-24 rows will result in a piece that ends just below your elbows.

End with a SC in the top of the first DC of a 3 DC cluster and a slip stitch in the second DC.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sizing Notes:  

This pattern should fit most adult women sizes L-XL using Red Heart with Love yarn and a K hook.   If you would like to use a different yarn or hook size, you will need to determine the correct number of chains to begin.  To determine your number of starting chains, you will need to measure the distance from one shoulder to the other and double that distance.  Your starting chain should be that length and follow the multiple of 8 + 5 rule for the beginning chain.

If you need to make the pattern smaller or larger, your initial chain should be a multiple of 8 + 5 stitches.
Rows 1-6 should be multiples of 8 + 4 with an increase of 8 stitches each row.
Rows 7-8 should be a multiple of 8 + 4 stitches.




Thursday, January 22, 2015

Wobbly Rectangles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love a square blanket, but sometimes it is helpful to have your blanket more the shape of a rectangle.  The dc2tog stitch can be used to create the Wobbly Rectangles Blanket!


Click here to add this project to your Ravelry queue!

 

What size to make?

Before we get started, you need to decide what size blanket you would like to make.  The size of your blanket will determine your starting chain for your rectangles.

Baby blanket: 30 x 36 inches = Starting chain of 20.

Lapghan:  36 x 48 inches = Starting chain of 38.

For any other dimensions, calculate the difference between your desired length and width.  For example, the baby blanket is 30 x 36.  36-30 is 6 inches.  Using a J hook and worsted weight yarn, you need 3 chains for each inch, + 2 extra chains for the start.  3 x 6 = 18, + 2 is 20 chains.

You may need to adjust the number of chains based on the type of yarn you are using, the size hook you are using, and the tension of your crochet.  Your starting chain must be a multiple of 3 + 2 to work.  To be certain you are okay, measure your chain as close to difference of your dimensions as possible, but confirm it is a multiple of 3 + 2. If you are slightly under, please do not worry.  It will still work!


Supplies:

3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Spring Green, and Turqua
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:


Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.


Pattern: (baby blanket)

*For a photo tutorial of the first two rows, click here.

Row 1: Chain 20.  In the fourth chain (counts as 1 dc) from the hook, begin dc2tog. (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops only).  Skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in next stitch (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw up through first 2 loops, yarn over, draw through remaining 3 loops).  Chain 1.  Begin next dc2tog in same stitch. Continue across the chain, ending with the completion of the final dc2tog in the last stitch. *Chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch.* Repeat * to * three times. Continue your stitches along the bottom side of the chain.  Begin dc2tog in the same stitch, skip 1 chain, complete dc2tog in the next. Dc2tog across to the end.  In the last stitch, complete the last dc2tog, *chain 1, dc *.  Repeat from * to * two times. Chain 1, join to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off. (8 dcs, 16 dc2togs, 24 chain 1 spaces)

* I'm working on my charting skills!  ;)



Row 2: Color B, Join new color in the chain 1 space just to the left of the chain 3 from Row 1, using the standing DC method, but only drawing up through the first two loops.  Complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin dc2tog in the same space and continue pattern across.  When you reach the end, you will see three tree chain 1 spaces in the rounded end from row 1.  In the first chain 1 space, create a corner cluster (end of last dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, begin new dc2tog, all in the same space). Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space.  Continue with the dc2tog pattern across the side.  When you reach the other end, create a corner cluster in the first of the three chain 1 spaces as the end. Complete dc2tog in next space, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in same space.  Complete in the third chain 1 end space.  Create a corner cluster in that space. Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your standing dc2tog. Chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog.

Row 2 begins to make the rectangular shape.  I really need to work on my charting skills!



Row 3: Color C, join new color in the chain 1 space, you just completed from Row 2 using the standing dc2tog method.  Dc2tog across, crocheting a corner cluster in each of the corner spaces and the dc2togs across each side.  Complete the last dc2tog in the same space as your join, chain 1, join to top of standing dc2tog.

Closeup of the first four rows of my completed blanket


Rows 4 - 24: Alternate colors, repeating row 3.

Note: If you decide to make any other dimensions for this blanket, you will need to continue to repeat row 3 until you achieve the desired length and width.  For the featured blanket picture, I made a lapghan that measures 36 x 48 inches and it was a total of 27 rows.

Fasten off and weave in ends!

Lapghan sized blanket created with beginning chain of 38.  36 by 48 inches


You can add any border you like, but I actually like mine without one!

Enjoy!

Monday, January 12, 2015

Wobbly Squares Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches


I have a confession to make. I'm not a fan of granny squares.  For some reason I have yet to figure out, they annoy me.  The first few rows are fine, but the never ending grannies just don't do anything for me.  However, square blankets fascinate me.  I love the idea of working in rounds that join and color change effects are equally satisfying.  Last year, one of my favorite blankets I made was based on the idea to create V stitches using dc2tog, the double crochet together stitch.  Instead of the traditional double crochet - chain- double crochet, the dc2tog V stitch blanket creates the Vs based on the side by side dc2togs.  It's really cool.  What is even better is the happiness that comes from making those darn dc2togs!  They are addicting and I find myself staying up later and later working on those blankets.



I saw a different blanket created by a designer using this method of  straight rows of V stitches, but I wanted to try my hand at making a square blanket using the dc2tog stitch.  I am so in love with what I came I came up with and I hope you like it, too! You can use this pattern with any weight of yarn, but I recommend going up a hook size from the one on the skein wrapper. It makes the blanket stretchy, luxurious, and lacy.  You could also use the hook size recommended by the yarn and you will get a denser blanket. This blanket would also be great with scrap yarn!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!

Supplies:

3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 different colors (7 oz per skein)
- I used white, Perfect Pink, and Petal Pink
- J Hook (6.00 mm)
- Tapestry needle

Stitches Needed:

Magic Circle
Chain
dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.
slip stitch
Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.
Standing dc2tog: begin a standing dc, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog.
DC

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.


Pattern:

** Click here for a photo tutorial of the first 3 rows. **

Row 1: Using Color 1, crochet a magic circle, chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).  Crochet one dc2tog, then chain 1. Repeat from * to * seven more times.  Join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. Close magic circle.


In each of the following rows, all stitches will be worked in the chain 1 spaces of the previous row.

Row 2: Using Color 2, using the standing double crochet method, join the new color in one of the chain 1 spaces, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the standing dc2tog. Fasten off.

 {You may choose to weave in your ends as you go or leave them until the end.}

Row 3: Using Color 3, join using the standing double crochet method in any space but a corner.  Remember to only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the standing dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Rows 4-27: Continue the pattern as directed in Row 3 for each additional row.  Alternate colors so that your wobbly squares are visible.

I chose not to add a border to my blanket, but feel free to add one to yours.