Sedona Wobbly Stripes Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

I love buying variegated yarn.  It always looks gorgeous on the skein, but once I start crocheting with it, I rarely like the pattern that results.  That is, until I started using a V-stitch pattern with my Loops & Threads Charisma yarn! Charisma is a bulky acrylic yarn and calls for a 6.5 mm hook. A few months ago, there was a crazy sale and I got 10 skeins of Charisma yarn in the Toadstool colorway for $1.99 a skein.  I started experimenting with the Wobbly V-stitch in horizontal strips and I really like how it came out.  Honestly, I think this pattern would be great with any variegated yarn.

When I shared a picture of this blanket with my friends on Facebook, it was unanimous that the blanket reminded them of colors in the desert.  Several said it reminded them of the colors in Sedona, Arizona.  The Toadstool colorway does look like a painted desert and the wobbly v-stitches help highlight each color.  I decided to make a baby blanket out of this amazing yarn especially for a coworker who spends the majority of her time outdoors. My favorite part is that the variegated yarn changes color on its own!

Sedona Wobbly Stripes Blanket Pattern

Supplies:

6 to 7 skeins Loops & Threads Charisma Yarn in Toadstool
K (6.5 mm) hook
tapestry needle

Stitches (US terms):

ch - chain stitch
DC - Double crochet
DC2TOG: double crochet together

Pattern:

Chain 80. (This will make a receiving blanket size.  To make a larger blanket, chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.)

Row 1: DC in the fifth chain from the hook.Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same chain, skip one chain, complete the dc2tog in the next chain. Chain 1. * Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, crochet one final dc2tog without skipping a chain between the dcs. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the chain 3 from the first row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 3: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Chain 3 and turn.

Rows 4-42: The rest of the blanket is super simple!  Just repeat row 3.  If you would like your blanket longer, continue row 3.

Border: I added a single crochet border around the entire blanket, but you can use any border you like.  You could even leave the blanket without a border!

Wobbly Circles Blanket - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Oh, my goodness. It has been two months since I promised you a Wobbly Circles Blanket pattern.  Two months.  It stuns me that my life is so busy! 

You may not know this, but I am a teacher.  In addition to that, I am an assistant director for our summer school program.  As soon as the school year ends, I'm getting summer school up and running.  Add to that all of the excitement two 8-year olds require and I hardly have time to breathe.  I know many of you are in the same boat.  The good news is that I had time this weekend to translate my written pattern into an actual blanket!

So far, we've made a Wobbly Squares Blanket and a Wobbly Rectangles Blanket.  This pattern is for the Wobbly Circles Blanket.  The ironic thing is that as I made this blanket, the larger the circles got, the less they looked like circles and more like a seven sided shape.  The placement of the increases spirals out, but they are still discernible.   By the way, if you are like me and are dying to know what a seven sided shape is called, look no further!  A seven sided shape is called a heptagon. You've learned something new today!

I did something I haven't done before with this blanket: I crocheted it entirely in cotton yarn.  I had a ton of Peaches & Creme yarn that I had not used and decided to see what it would do as a blanket.  I was a little anxious.  I've generally only used this yarn for water bottle covers, mug hugs, and Kindle covers.  I just did not see it as a blanket.  I was pleasantly surprised!  This blanket is so light and lovely.  

Okay, let's get started!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue.

Wobbly Circles Blanket - Free Pattern by Tw-In Stitches

Supplies

2.5 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - White
2.5 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - Bright Chartreuse ("green" throughout pattern)
3 skeins Peaches & Creme Cotton Yarn - Iced Strawberry ("pink" throughout pattern)

H hook ( 5.0 mm)

tapestry needle

Special Stitches:

Dc2tog: Begin a dc in on space and pull up yarn through two loops only (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook through next chain 1 space. Yarn over, pull up through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops.


Regular Wobbly V-Stitch is made by a series of 2 dc2togs: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the SAME chain 1 space and complete it in the next.


Increase Wobbly V-Stitch: To increase, we will crochet a chain 1, dc, chain 1 between Wobbly V-Stitches.  So: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. In the same space, chain 1, DC, chain 1, begin your next dc2tog and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  The Increase Wobbly V-Stitch looks like a W.

Important Note about increases:

The easiest way to keep track of where the increase wobbly stitches go is to make certain they always go in the first chain 1 space of the increase wobbly stitch (W) from the previous round.  If you do this, you will always know when you should be increasing and when it should be a regular wobbly stitch.  Here is a sample of what I mean (pictures are from the Full Wobbly Hat):

Gauge:

7 dc2tog and 6 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches
Completed blanket is 40 inches across.

Pattern (baby blanket size):

Row 1 (Pink): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* six times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have seven chain 1 spaces. Fasten off and weave in ends.  Weave as you go!  You'll thank me later!


Row 2 (White): In this round we are going to crochet an Increase Wobbly V-stitch in each chain 1 space.  Remember that because we are doing the wobbly v-stitches, half of the v will begin in a chain 1 space and end in the next.


With new color, begin a standing dc2tog in a chain 1 space, complete in the next space. In this same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog in the same space. Repeat around. Complete the last dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as the standing dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends. (7 Increase Wobbly V-Stitches will appear to be 14 V-Stitches = 14 chain 1 spaces)


Row 3 (Green): In this round, we will alternate Increase Wobbly V-Stitch in one chain 1 space and Regular Wobbly V-Stitch in the next. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any of the Increase Wobbly V-Stitches.  It is important to the way we will be increasing that you start here.  Since the increase looks like a W, you will start in the left opening of the W.  Complete your dc2tog in the next space.  *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * around.  (You should have alternating increases and regular wobbly Vs in each chain 1 space around.) Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Row 4 (Pink): In this round we will follow this pattern: Increase wobbly, regular wobbly, regular wobbly.

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of any Increase Wobbly from row 3 and complete in the next space.   *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around.  Chain 1, and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Row 5 (White): Again, remember to begin a standing dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of any Increase Wobbly from row 4.  Then, continuing the pattern of increase, regular, regular, regular around.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Remember, increases will always go in the first chain 1 space of any W.  All the rest are regular wobbly V-stitches.


Row 6 (Green): From here out, you will continue by starting the first dc2tog in the chain 1 space to the right of an Increase Wobbly V-Stitch, increasing in the first chain 1 of the increase in the row before, Regular Wobbly V-Stitches in the rest of the chain 1 spaces.

Increase, regular 4 times. Repeat.

Row 7 (Pink): Increase, regular 5 times. Repeat.

Row 8 (White): Increase, regular 6 times. Repeat.

Do you see how it works?

Rows 9-27: Continue alternating colors each row following the pattern.

Row 28 (Pink): No increases in this round.  Regular Wobbly V-Stitches in each chain 1 space around. If you are going to use the same color like I did, slip stitch to the top of the first dc2tog and slip stitch into the next chain 1 space.

Row 29 (Pink): I used a scallop border for my blanket and I love it!  It is easy to do and is completed entirely in the chain 1 spaces from Row 28.

In the chain 1 space from row 28, chain 1, 1 sc in the same space. In the next chain 1 space, 5 dcs.  *In the next chain 1 space, 1 sc. In the next chain 1 space, 5 dcs.*  Repeat from * to * around, ending with a slip stitch in the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Making a larger sized blanket:

To make your blanket larger, continue from row 27 with the increase/regular pattern.  When you have reached the diameter you desire, crochet one row of Regular Wobbly V-Stitches and finish with the border you desire.

The Fully Wobbly - Free Hat Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Wobbly V-Stitch Hat Version 1: The Full Wobbly   

I am totally excited to share with you the first of two wobbly v-stitch hats: The Full Wobbly!  The Full Wobbly is comprised of v-stitches from the very beginning.  The fun part about the wobbly patterns, remember, is that the v-stitches are made using the dc2tog stitch (the double crochet 2 together).  This method has been addicting to me and I love using it as often as I can!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue.

Let's get started!

Supplies

2 or more colors of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn (I used 3: White, Turqua, and Spring Green)
I hook ( 5.5 mm)
tapestry needle

Special Stitches:

Dc2tog: Begin a dc in on space and pull up yarn through two loops only (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook through next chain 1 space. Yarn over, pull up through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops.

Regular Wobbly V-Stitch is made by a series of 2 dc2togs: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the SAME chain 1 space and complete it in the next.

Increase Wobbly V-Stitch: To increase, we will crochet a chain 1, dc, chain 1 between Wobbly V-Stitches.  So: Begin a dc2tog in a chain 1 space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. In the same space, chain 1, DC, chain 1, begin your next dc2tog and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  The Increase Wobbly V-Stitch looks like a W.

Gauge:

7 dc2tog and 6 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches

Pattern (Teen and Adult size):

Row 1 (Color 1): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* six times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have seven chain 1 spaces. Fasten off.

Row 2 (Color 2): In this round we are going to crochet an Increase Wobbly V-stitch in each chain 1 space.  Remember that because we are doing the wobbly v-stitches, half of the v will begin in a chain 1 space and end in the next. 

With new color, begin a standing dc2tog in a chain 1 space, complete in the next space. In this same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog in the same space. Repeat around. Complete the last dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as the standing dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. (7 Increase Wobbly V-Stitches will appear to be 14 V-Stitches = 14 chain 1 spaces)

Row 3 (Color 3): In this round, we will alternate increase Wobbly V-Stitch in one chain 1 space and regular wobbly v-stitch in the next. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any of the Increase Wobbly V-Stitches.  It is important to the way we will be increasing that you start here.  Since the increase looks like a W, you will start in the left opening of the W.  Complete your dc2tog in the next space.  *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * around.  (You should have alternating increases and regular wobbly Vs in each chain 1 space around.) Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off.

The standing dc2tog goes in the left chain 1 space of an increase wobbly.

Row 4 (Color 1): In this round we will follow this pattern: Increase wobbly, regular wobbly, regular wobbly. 

With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any Increase Wobbly from row 3 and complete in the next space.   *In the same space, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start the next dc2tog. Complete the dc2tog in the next space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around.  Chain 1, and join to the top of the first dc2tog. 

Take a minute and measure the diameter of your circle.  For an adult hat, you want your diameter to be 6.5 to 7 inches.  For a child's hat, you want your diameter to be 5-6 inches.  If  you need to increase more, for each new increase row, you will do the following:

Increase, regular, regular, regular
Increase, regular, regular, regular, regular
Increase, regular, regular, regular, regular, regular

Do you see it?  One more regular wobble V for each row.  This is just like any circle you crochet.  You increase the number of regular stitches as the circle gets bigger and bigger.

My hat, for an adult, needs one more row of increases.

Row 5 (Color 2): Again, remember to begin a standing dc2tog in the left chain 1 space of any Increase Wobbly from row 4.  Then, continuing the pattern of increase, regular, regular, regular around.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog.

When you have reached the diameter you want, you will stop increasing.  For the purpose of this pattern, I am going to call this Row 6, but it is really which ever row you are on.

Row 6 (no increases): With a new color, begin a standing dc2tog in any chain 1 space. and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  *Chain 1, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around. Your final dc2tog should end in the same space as the first dc2tog.  Chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Row 7 - 13: With alternating colors, repeat row 6.

Make sure to measure your hat to make certain it is long enough.  An adult sized hat should be about 9 inches from crown to ear.  Add more rows if necessary.

Finish: You can use any border you like.  For this one, I am using what I call a faux picot crossover stitch.  I love this stitch and I use it for almost all of my blankets!  It looks much more challenging that it actually is!

Faux Picot Crossover Border:

With a new color, make a standing single crochet in any chain 1 space.  Chain 2.  Working from front to back, insert your hook into the unworked chain 1 space to the right of the space you began.  Yarn over and pull through the stitch to the front.  Yarn over and pull through both loops.  *Move to the next unworked chain 1 space to the left.  SC in that space.  Chain 2. Insert your hook back into the previous space. Yarn over and pull through the stitch to the front.  Yarn over and pull through both loops.* Repeat from * to * around. You will end by beginning your last faux picot crossover in the first chain 1 space (it will have on stitch in it). Complete the crossover and slip stitch  into the first sc. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends carefully.


Note: I made a ridiculous number of hats to make sure this pattern worked out nicely.  However, if you find that your hat is too big or too loose, you can start your first round by doing the following:
Row 1 (Color 1): Start with a Magic Circle.  Chain 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 chain). *Dc2tog, chain 1* five times in the magic circle. DC and join to the third chain of the beginning chain 4.  You will have SIX chain 1 spaces. Fasten off. Continue with the pattern as it reads.  You will have multiples of 6 in each row instead of multiples of 7 as my pattern calls for. 

I'm seriously in love with this pattern and I hope you are as well! Enjoy!

Want to make a blanket that goes with this hat?

Wobbly Rectangles Blanket: http://www.twinstitches.com/2015/01/wobbly-rectangles-blanket-free-pattern.html

Wobbly Squares Blanket: http://www.twinstitches.com/2015/01/wobbly-squares-blanket-free-pattern-tw.html

Update to Lacey Trellis Spiral Poncho Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Hi, everyone!  Welcome to my blog!

I'm writing today to let you know that I posted some major edits to the Lacey Trellis Spiral Poncho Pattern this morning.  Have you ever written something, thought you saved your changes, and then realized that your edits did not save?  That is what I encountered yesterday.  A friend was making the poncho and wrote me a note about an error she saw.  When I went back to look at the pattern, I realized that in my excitement of releasing it, I must not have clicked save when I finalized the pattern.

If you have already started the poncho, I am really sorry about the error!  I hope you will give the pattern another shot and I have great news for you.  The error had to do with the number of counts of stitches you need before you start the trellis portion.  In the original pattern, you needed to have a multiple of 8 plus 4. What you should have is a multiple of 8 total.  To fix your piece, you can add 4 increases somewhere in your last increase row.  I recommend spacing them out.  This should not affect the overall look of the increase rows.

Also, the trellis instructions have been edited.  Please visit the pattern page for more information. 

I apologize for any frustration this may cause you.  I feel terrible about this error and I hope you will give the pattern another chance!

Lacey Trellis Poncho - Spiral Version - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Have you tried the original Lacey Trellis Poncho?  I've made five since I posted the pattern.  They are so ridiculously quick to make!  I even entered one in the community art show at school.

I've been wanting to try to make the Lacey Trellis in the round for quite some time, but never had time to sit down and try it.  Last week, I decided to see what I could come up with.  In my mind, it looked just like the Lacey Trellis above, only the trellis was vertical instead of horizontal. Silly me forgot that the trellis only happens because you work the pattern back and forth..  As I started the pattern, I worked in the round without a join.  The result was this amazing continuous spiral.  What is awesome is the amazing spiral pattern that started because I was working in the round!

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue! 

Lacy Trellis Spiral Poncho

Supplies:

2 skeins Red Heart Love yarn {see note at end if you would like to use a different weight of yarn}
K hook {see note at end if you would like to use a different hook}
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Stitches Used:

chain
single crochet (SC)
half double crochet (HDC)
double crochet (DC)

Special Notes:

* For the  rows 2-8, the chain 2 does NOT count as an HDC.
At the end of each of the first 8 rows, join to the top of the first stitch and continue in the round.

Before you begin your poncho, you need to decide whether you would like it to hang off your shoulders or would like it to stay on top of both shoulders.  I made this poncho for a friend, but when I made one for me, I measured the distance between my bra straps and doubled it to find my starting chain length.   Starting chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1.

Pattern:

{As written, this pattern will fit a women's size large or extra large.  To make another size, see pattern notes below.}

Chain 81, slip stitch to join. Be careful not to twist.
Row 1: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join in the top of the first SC. (80 SC)

Row 2: Chain 2, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around, slip stitch to join. (80 HDC)

Row 3: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 9 stitches.*  Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. (88 HDC)

Row 4: Chain 2, 2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 10 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (96 HDC)

Row 5: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 11 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (104 HDC)

Row 6: Chain 2,  2 HDC in the same stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches. *2 HDC in the next stitch, 1 HDC in each of the next 12 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to top of first HDC. (112 HDC)

Row 7-8: Chain 2, 1 HDC in each stitch around. (112 stitches)
*Note this row MUST be a multiple of 6 stitches + 4.  (For example, 64, 88, 112, 136, or 160)  If you see that you need to continue to increase, make sure that your final row is a multiple of 6 stitches plus 4.

Begin the Trellis:
The trellis is crocheted in the round, so when you come back to the first chain 3, you will continue the pattern into row 2 of the trellis.

Trellis Row 1:  *Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, 3 DC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.  The last set of stitches in the first row of the trellis will be a chain 3.  You will still have two stitches between the last sc and the beginning chain 3. Continue the pattern by crocheting 3 DC in the beginning chain 3.

From that point forward, continue with this pattern: *Chain 3, SC in the top of first DC in the next 3 DC cluster. Chain 3, 3 DC in the next chain 3 space. *  Repeat from * to *. 

Continue the spiral trellis pattern until your piece has 20-24 rows of trellis.  If you would like, you can continue longer than this, but 20-24 rows will result in a piece that ends just below your elbows.

End with a SC in the top of the first DC of a 3 DC cluster and a slip stitch in the second DC.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sizing Notes:  

This pattern should fit most adult women sizes L-XL using Red Heart with Love yarn and a K hook.   If you would like to use a different yarn or hook size, you will need to determine the correct number of chains to begin.  To determine your number of starting chains, you will need to measure the distance from one shoulder to the other and double that distance.  Your starting chain should be that length and follow the multiple of 8 + 1 rule for the beginning chain.

If you need to make the pattern smaller or larger, your initial chain should be a multiple of 8 + 1 stitches.

Rows 1-6 should be multiples of 8 with an increase of 8 stitches each row. Here's how to calculate where to make your increases.  Take your multiple of 8, for example 96, and divide by 8 = 12.  Your repeat pattern will take place over 12 stitches.  You will crochet 2 HDC into the first stitch and 1 HDC into the next 11. This will be your repeat.  If your multiple of 8 is 120, 120 divided by 8 is 15, so your repeat pattern will take place over 15 stitches.  2 DC in the first, and 1 DC in each of the next 14.

Rows 7-8 should be a multiple of  6 stitches + 4 stitches.  NO increases.

Here is a chart of how it works:

			Original
Starting multiple of 8	32	56	80	104	128
Row 3 (increase)	40	64	88	112	136
Row 4 (increase)	48	72	96	120	144
Row 5 (increase)	56	80	104	128	152
Row 6 (before sprial)	64	88	112	136	160