All The Pinks Scrappy Scarf Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Recently, I made my friend, Nikki, a sweater vest using Caron Cakes Cherry Chip. Cherry Chip is a great colorway. It has several different shades of pink and a bit of brown. It was the first time I used Caron Cakes and I discovered that in order to maintain the striping order, I often had to cut the yarn and start a new skein. That meant I had 3 partial skeins left. I hate left over yarn! So, I decided to use the left over skeins to create something else for Nikki: a scarf with All The Pinks! Pink is Nikki's favorite color, so this scarf is going to be loved.

Supplies:

1.5 skeins of leftover Caron Cakes Cherry Chip yarn (I joined all of the skeins using the Double Knot technique before I started.)
J (6 mm) hook
1 tapestry needle

Stitches:

chain
slip stitch
DC
DC2TOG

Pattern:

Chain 29.

Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from the hook.Chain 1. *Start a DC2TOG in the same stitch. Skip one chain. Complete the DC2TOG in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across, ignoring the skip one chain to finish the last DC2tog. Chain 3 and turn. (1 DC, 12 DC2TOG)

Row 2: DC in the first chain 1 space. *Chain 1 and start a DC2TOG in the same space.  Complete the DC2TOG in the next chain 1 space. * Repeat from * to * across. Chain 3 and turn.

Rows 3-105: Repeat Row 2.

After completing row 105, fasten off and weave in ends.

I kept going until I ran out of yarn, but you can stop at any length!

The On-The-Go Wobbly Blanket - Free Pattern

My son has started his basketball season and I find myself a mess during basketball games.  I could handle soccer, but the stress of basketball leaves me with my hands covering my eyes and generally not being a positive vision as a spectator.  I decided last night that I need something to occupy my hands so that I can keep them away from my face. It also needs to be portable so that I don't have to drag around something large.  I've decided to use the Wobbly Pattern (my favorite) to create something I can crochet without having to think too much.

Last year, I made this blanket by crocheting strips of Wobbly stripes and joining them using the flat braid join.

A photo posted by Jennifer Uribe (@uribetwins) on Dec 14, 2015 at 2:47pm PST

I've decided to actually write down the pattern this time and make it into something with lots more color. This is very much a pattern in progress and I will update it as I go. For now, the plan is to make this in a baby blanket size.

Supplies:
{As I am stash busting, I am using any leftover Red Heart with Love yarn I have}
Red Heart with Love Yarn in 6 colors
J Hook (6 mm)
tapestry needle

Stitches:

Chain
DC - double crochet
dc2tog - couble crochet together

Pattern:

To make this blanket, I am going to start by making 5 panels in different colors.

To make a panel:

Chain 20. (This will make a receiving blanket size.  To make a larger blanket, chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.)

Row 1: DC in the third chain from the hook. Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same chain, skip one chain, complete the dc2tog in the next chain. Chain 1. * Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, crochet one final dc2tog without skipping a chain between the dcs. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the chain 3 from the first row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 3: DC in the first chain 1 space.  Chain 1. *Begin a dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Chain 1.* Continue from * to * across. To complete the row, begin the last dc2tog in the last chain 1 space and complete it in the top of the turning chain of the previous row. Chain 3 and turn.

Rows 4-42: The rest of the panel is super simple!  Just repeat row 3.  If you would like your blanket longer, continue row 3.

To be continued...

Half Wobbly Hat Crochet Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

In December of 2015, I shared the Half Wobbly Hat pattern using super bulky yarn.  Recently, I had the opportunity to make a hat for my sister using this pattern, but with a very different yarn.  I thought I might share the pattern with you in case you would like to make a Half Wobbly Hat in a worsted weight or other yarn!

Half Wobbly Hat Pattern

Supplies:

1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable or worsted weight yarn
I (5.5 mm) hook
1 tapestry needle

Stitches:

Chain
DC
DC2TOG
Slip stitch

Pattern:

Row 1: Using a magic circle, chain 2. Crochet 12 DC into the magic circle. Close the circle and slip stitch into the top of the first DC. (Note: it is very important that this beginning circle is a multiple of three.)

Row 2: Chain 2, 2 DC in each stitch around. Slip Stitch into the top of the first DC. (24 DCs)

Row 3: Chain 2, *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch into the top of the first DC to finish.  (36 DCs)

Row 4: Chain 2, *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in each of the next two stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch into the top of the first DC to finish.  (48 DCs)

Row 5: Chain 2, *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in each of the next three stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch into the top of the first DC to finish. (60 DCs)

At this point, stop and measure the diameter of your circle.  An adult hat should measure 6.75 in (adult small) to 7.25 inches (adult large) across.  You need to keep increasing until you reach that length. Depending on your tension, you may need to crochet additional rows to increase.

**Row 6 (if you need to increase to reach correct size): Chain 2, *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in each of the next four stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch into the top of the first DC to finish. (72 DCs)

*** If you need to keep increasing: Chain 2, *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in each of the next 5 stitches, etc.


Row 7 (Wobbly Row): Chain 1. HDC in the same stitch (counts as one half of a DC2TOG). Skip one stitch and DC in the next. Chain 1. Start a DC2TOG in the same space, skip one stitch and complete the DC2TOG in the next space. *Chain 1, start a DC2TOG in the same space, skip one stitch and complete the DC2TOG in the next chain stitch.* Repeat from * to star around until you finish the last DC2TOG. Chain 1, DC in the same stitch and slip stitch to the third chain to end the row. The number of stitches you have will depend on how many times you increased.

Row 8 (Wobbly Row): Slip stitch into the chain 1 space.  HDC in the same space and DC into the next chain 1 space.  *Chain 1 and begin a DC2TOG in the same space. Complete the DC2TOG in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around. Following final chain 1, slip stitch into the top of the first DC to join.

Row 9-12: Repeat Row 8. For a slouchy hat, you can repeat Row 8 for two or three more rows.

Row 13: Slip stitch into the chain 1 space. Chain 1. Crochet 2 HDC in the same space. 2 HDC in each chain 1 space around. Slip stitch to the top of the first HDC to join.


Row 14. Chain 1. 1 HDC in each stitch around. Slip stitch to the top of the first HDC to join.

Repeat Row 14 if you would like more of a band.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Viola!

The Secret Stitch | A Ficton Book Review | Tw-In Stitches Blog

I'm an avid reader.  When I say avid, I mean I often have several books going at the same time. I listen to audio books on my way to work and have an e-book on my tablet at all times.  I'm even 200% over my Good Reads goal for 2016!

A few months ago, I learned about a book called The Secret Stitch.  Written by C. Jane Reid, the book is the first in a series of historical fiction books about women who migrated to colonial America.  The Secret Stitch centers around Ailee Donaghue, a young woman with an unfortunate past who marries a stranger and makes the journey to America.  The book takes us through the treacherous trip across the Atlantic Ocean and the challenges Ailee and her husband face once they arrive. The part that I found most interesting was the hints about the origins of crochet.  While never explicitly stated, we learn a little about how crochet came to America and how it was passed down from woman to woman.

As a character, Ailee is very sympathetic. She's made some poor decisions and she looks at her current situation as making the most of what she created for herself.  She is young and still trying to find her place.  I really appreciated that she felt like an outsider most of the time.  She worked hard for the people on board the ship and those she met once she arrived in America to like her.  Like many of us, she is not good at everything.  Her knitting leaves a lot to be desired. (Just like mine!) She does not know how to cook or keep a house because she grew up in a home where she had servants.  Now that she is married, she is expected to learn how to do all of those things.  I appreciated that she did not give up in the face of criticism and scorn.

The Secret Stitch is, for the most part, a story about Ailee: her journey to wife-hood, her growth as a woman, and her ability to face trials . As it progresses, her relationship with her husband becomes closer (although I did want to shake him at times), so this book is also a romance. C. Jane Reid did a good job of communicating how awkward their marriage initially is and how trying it is to undertake as bold a move as they did as newlyweds.

I don't want to give spoilers because it will ruin how crochet becomes important in the book, but I can tell you that as soon as Ailee learned "the secret stitch," I was dying to know more about it.  The hints and descriptions of how she was using it drew me in and kept me reading long into the night. 

The best part about The Secret Stitch is that it is the first in a series by C. Jane Reid!  Each story appears to be about a different woman from the ship Ailee and her husband traveled on to America. As we are introduced to the stories of the new characters, more and more is revealed about the crochet and an ancient mystery.  Even better, each book features a crochet pattern by Laurinda Reddig of Recrochetions.  This book contains a pattern for a cowl made with slip stitches!

I really enjoyed The Secret Stitch and am planning to purchase The Sojourn Stitch, the next in the series, to find out what happens to Ailee's friend Elsie. I can recommend this book to anyone who likes historical fiction or historical romance.  You can purchase The Secret Stitch in e-book form on Amazon, from Barnes and Noble, Kobo, Scribd, or Apple iBooks.

Disclaimer: I received this book in exchange for a review and was not compensated by the author. All opinions are my own. I really enjoyed it!

Wobbly Squares Blanket in Variegated Yarn | Tw-In Stitches

Curious about making the Wobbly Squares Blanket in variegated yarn?  Here are some photos of a baby blanket I made earlier this year! These are raw out of my camera, so please forgive them if the colors seem off.

 

Center of the blanket

The entire Wobbly Squares Blanket with Variegated yarn

These pictures don't really do the blanket justice.  Here's an up close shot of one side.

I think this is super fun!  If you would like to make your own Wobbly Squares Blanket in one color or with variegated yarn, follow this pattern!

Wobbly Squares Blanket Without Changing Colors

Wobbly Baby Blanket and Hat | Tw-In Stitches

I hope you are enjoying the Wobbly patterns!  Today, I'd like to share a baby blanket and hat I made using the Wobbly Squares blanket pattern and the Full Wobbly hat pattern.

The blanket was made using the Wobbly Squares {without changing colors} blanket pattern.  I used an I hook and Caron One Pound yarn in Lilac.  You can find the pattern here. To make this blanket, I followed the pattern and crocheted a total of 27 rows.

The border is very simple:
Border Row 1: SC in each chain 1 space, *chain 1, SC in next.* Repeat from * to * around, crocheting a SC, chain 2, SC in each of the corner spaces. Slip stitch into first SC to finish. Slip stitch into next chain 1 space.
Border Row 2: Chain 1, SC in the same space.  *Chain 4. Skip (one SC, chain 1, one SC) and SC in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to *, In each corner, SC, chain 2, SC.  Slip stitch to first SC to finish. Slip stitch into next chain 4 space.
Border Row 3: In each chain 4 space, 2 HDC, 1 DC, 2 HDC. Skip all SC from previous round.  In each corner, crochet 3 HDC.  Slip stitch to first HDC to finish. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The hat was made using the remaining yarn and the Full Wobbly Hat pattern. You can find the pattern for teens and adults here.

To make the hat for newborn size, follow the instructions for the first 4 rows. Do not increase after row 4.  For rows 5-9, follow the instructions for row 6 (no increases).  For row 10, SC in each chain 1 space, then chain 1 around.

The flower is inspired by one of my favorite flower patterns ever.  You can find it on Cre8tion Crochet. I did make two changes. First, instead of single crochets to make the base, I used half double crochets.  That is why it is so flat.  Second, instead of finishing each round with a slip stitch, I simply started the next row by crocheting into the first stitch.  It creates a nice spiral effect.

I'm working on another baby blanket using cotton yarn in a great hot pink, pink, and lime green variegated pattern.  It's awesome!

I hope you enjoy these patterns!

Wobbly Squares Blanket {without changing colors} | Free Pattern by Tw-In Stitches

So what happens if you really like the Wobbly Squares design, but really do not want to change colors?  No worries. I can help! It is super easy and it completely hides the join.

Supplies:

Worsted Weight yarn
hook size should be one size larger than the yarn calls for
tapestry needle to fasten off

Stitches:

Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Double crochet together (dc2tog)
Slip Stitch
Chain

Pattern:

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 dcs in each corner.

Row 1: Using a magic circle, chain 2, then 1 double crochet (DC). This counts as one dc2tog. *Chain 1, dc2tog.* Repeat from * to * 6 times. Chain 1. Join to the top of the first DC. Slip stitch into the first chain 1 space. (1 DC, 8 chain spaces, 7 dc2tog)

Chart of Row 1

Join to top of first DC.

Slip Stitch into chain 1 space.

Row 2: Chain 1, 1 half double crochet (HDC) in the same space. In the next chain 1 space, DC and chain 1.

Chain 1, hdc in same space.

DC in next chain 1 space.

To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space. Yarn over, insert hook into same chain 1 space, yarn over, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1.

First V and first corner completed.

Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the DC. Slip stitch into the next chain 1 space. (to make sure this is correct, you should appear to have four corners and 4 sides with a V-stitch in the middle)

Row 2 (Not the best chart, but I did my best!)

Row 3: To continue in the same color, chain 1, HDC in the same space.  DC in the next chain 1 space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Each new corner will always be in the chain 1 space between the 2 double crochets of the previous corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the first DC.  Slip stitch into the next chain 1 space.

Rows 4-and beyond: Continue the pattern as directed for each additional row.  Remember: to continue using a single color, you have to slip stitch into the next chain 1 space to after you have joined to complete a row. then chain 1 and HDC in the same space, DC in the next and chain 1. After that, the wobbly pattern continues.

I'm currently working on a blanket using this pattern and will share it with you as soon as it is completed.  I do have one other one I made using this method and Ice Magic Light yarn.  This variegated yarn created a very fun effect!

Errata for Lacey Trellis Spiral Poncho

Hi, everyone!

I have a bit of an errata for the Lacey Trellis Spiral Poncho pattern.  I had a few people make the pattern but discover that they were not ending with a number that would allow them to create the trellis portion of the poncho.  I went back to the math and discovered that there was a bit of a problem.  For the spiral to work, your final row definitely was a multiple of 8, but it also has to be a multiple of 6 stitches + 4.

Here is a chart of how it works:

			Original
Starting multiple of 8	32	56	80	104	128
Row 3 (increase)	40	64	88	112	136
Row 4 (increase)	48	72	96	120	144
Row 5 (increase)	56	80	104	128	152
Row 6 (before sprial)	64	88	112	136	160

Any of the combination in this chart will work.  The original pattern was started with 80 stitches and ended with 112 before the spiral row began.

I apologize for any confusion or frustration!  I hope you will share your pictures of your ponchos with me!

Sophie's Half Wobbly Hat and Scarf - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Every year, my homeroom advisory draws names for Secret Snowflakes.  A few years ago, I made an infinity scarf for Grace and shared that pattern with you. This year, I drew Sophie's name and since her favorite color is purple (like mine!), I decided to make her a hat and an infinity scarf.  It needed to be something quick, so I bought 3 skeins of Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky yarn and hoped for the best! The result is a toasty warm and gorgeous combination!

Both the scarf and the pattern use the wobbly DC2TOG method of V stitches.  I made both in just under 3 hours using super bulky yarn and an N (10 mm) hook. I hope you like these two designs!

Click here to add this project to your Ravelry queue.

Half Wobbly Hat Pattern

Supplies:

1 skein Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky yarn
N (10 mm) hook
1 tapestry needle

Stitches:

DC
DC2TOG
Slip stitch
*the chain 2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Pattern:

Row 1: Using a magic circle, chain 2. Crochet 12 DC into the magic circle. Close the circle and slip stitch into the top of the first DC.

Row 2: Chain 2, 2 DC in each stitch around. Slip Stitch into the top of the first DC. (24 DCs)

Row 3: Chain 2, *2 DC in the first stitch, 1 DC in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch into the top of the first DC to finish.  (36 DCs)

Row 4 (Wobbly Row): Chain 4 (counts as one half of a DC2TOG). Start a DC2TOG in the same space, skip one stitch and complete the DC2TOG in the next space. *Chain 1, start a DC2TOG in the same space, skip one stitch and complete the DC2TOG in the next chain stitch.* Repeat from * to star around until you finish the last DC2TOG. Chain 1, DC in the same stitch and slip stitch to the third chain to end the row.

Row 5 (Wobbly Row): Slip stitch into the chain 1 space.  Chain 2 and DC into the next chain 1 space.  *Chain 1 and begin a DC2TOG in the same space. Complete the DC2TOG in the next chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around. Following final chain 1, slip stitch into the top of the first DC to join.

Row 6-9: Repeat Row 5.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sophie's Wobbly Scarf Pattern

Supplies:

2 skeins Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky yarn
N (10 mm) hook
1 tapestry needle

Stitches:

chain
slip stitch
DC
DC2TOG

Pattern:

Chain 17.

Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from the hook.Chain 1. *Start a DC2TOG in the same stitch. Skip one chain. Complete the DC2TOG in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across, ignoring the skip one chain to finish the last DC2tog. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: DC in the first chain 1 space. *Chain 1 and start a DC2TOG in the same space.  Complete the DC2TOG in the next chain 1 space. * Repeat from * to * across. Chain 3 and turn.

Rows 3-54: Repeat Row 2.

After completing row 54, fasten off.  Bring the two ends of the scarf together without twisting.  Sew the two ends together using a whipstitch or other.  Weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy making Sophie's hat and scarf as much as I did!

I've been teaching for 21 years! Free Pattern Celebration - OFFER HAS ENDED!

Today is my 21st first day of school as a teacher!  That seems so crazy to me. I swear I just graduated from college.  :)

To celebrate 21 years of teaching, I am offering you a free pattern!  I have exactly one paid pattern in my Ravelry store and it is yours for free until Friday at 11:59 pm PST. OFFER HAS ENDED!

Meet the Toasty Warm Ponytail Hat! Made with bulky yarn, this crocheted hat is made so that you can wear your ponytail high or low. Dress it up by adding flowers or fun buttons.

To get the Toasty Warm Ponytail Hat, simply
1) Visit the pattern page on Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/toasty-warm-ponytail-hat
2) Click on Add to Cart
3) Enter this coupon code: 21FIRST (case sensitive!)
4) Checkout!

Please feel free to share the link to this page, but please do not share coupon code on its own.

Thanks for celebrating with me!

Wobbly Stripes Handbag - Free Pattern | Tw-In Stitches

Oh, my goodness!  I've been crocheting up a storm trying to get rid of my stash and every time I think I've made some headway, I find another bag, another box, and more skeins of yarn!  I'm flabbergasted by the amount of yarn I have.

The yarn that frustrate me the most is the balls of partial skeins of yarn (a.k.a. the dreaded scraps).  I have a ton of them leftover from blankets scarves and other things I've made.  I had quite a few balls of yarn left from when I made the Sophie's Universe blanket earlier this year.  I used Vanna's Choice in ten different shades and I had enough left that I thought I might be able to make a handbag.  As I started, I thought "Why not use the wobbly pattern?" You guys, seriously!  The Wobbly V-Stitch makes this bag so fun and quick to make.  The two bags pictured were made in the last 24 hours!

I started by using up the two skeins of the Rust colorway.  I thought, for sure, that I would use it more in my blanket, but it bothered me every time I used it and ended up avoiding using it.  The good news is that I have a sister who loves orange, so this bag was made with her in mind.  

I decided to start with a Wobbly Square and continue with Wobbly Stripes worked in the round.  The great thing about this pattern is that you can make the bottom of the bag bigger or smaller depending on your beginning square.  Also, you can choose to make the bag deeper by repeating the Wobbly Stripes rows. I also added a button to close the top of the bag in a different way!

Wobbly Stripes Handbag - Free Pattern

Click here to add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn (I used the leftover Vanna’s Choice yarn from my Sophie’s Universe blanket)

H hook (5.0 mm)

Tapestry needle
3/4 inch or 1 inch diameter button

Stitches Needed:

Magic Circle

Chain

SC: Single crochet

DC: double crochet

dc2tog (Double crochet together)  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet this stitch.

slip stitch

Standing DC  Click here for a video from Moogly to learn how to crochet a standing dc.

Standing dc2tog: begin a standing DC, pull yarn through first two loops only.  Yarn over, insert hook through next chain 1 space and complete the dc2tog. 

Note about the corners: Each corner is worked over three stitches.  They will consist of the second half of a dc2tog, chain 1, DC, chain 1, DC, chain 1, the first half of a dc2tog.  You will have what appears to be 4 DCs in each corner. 

Working with one color: If you decide to make your handbag in one color instead of multiple colors, you will not be fastening off.  You will need to be able to work your way up to the next row.  It's easy to do! Join to the top of the first dc2tog, slip stitch into the chain 1 space. Chain 3. Double crochet into the next chain 1 space. Chain 1 and begin the dc2tog part of the pattern.  See? Easy!

Pattern:

** Click here for a photo tutorial of the first 3 rows. **

Row 1: Using Color 1, crochet a magic circle, chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).  Crochet one dc2tog, then chain 1. Repeat from * to * seven more times.  Join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off. Close magic circle.

In each of the following rows, all stitches will be worked in the chain 1 spaces of the previous row.

Row 2: Using Color 2, using the standing double crochet method, join the new color in one of the chain 1 spaces, but only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. To form the first corner, we will continue to work in the same space.  Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.  Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1.  *Make a corner (Chain 1, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, chain 1 all in the same space.  To complete the corner, begin the next dc2tog in the same space and complete it in the next chain 1 space.). Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space.*  Repeat  from * to * two more times.  Join to the top of the standing dc2tog. Fasten off.

 {You may choose to weave in your ends as you go or leave them until the end.}

Row 3: Using Color 3, join using the standing double crochet method in any space but a corner.  Remember to only pull through the first two loops (beginning of first dc2tog started). Yarn over and complete the dc2tog in the next chain space.  Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space, until you reach a corner.  Complete the final dc2tog in the corner, chain 1, dc, chain 1, dc, chain 1, start dc2tog in the corner and complete in the next stitch.  Continue around joining to the top of the standing dc2tog.  Fasten off.

Rows 4-6: Repeat row 3. Alternate colors according to the pattern you established.

Rows 7-20: For these rows, we are going to ignore the corners and consider only their chain 1 spaces!  This row is only dc2togs and chain 1s.  Join using the standing double crochet method in any space. Complete the dc2tog in the next chain space. Chain 1. Begin the next dc2tog in the same space, complete in the next chain 1 space. Continue this pattern, dc2tog, chain 1, begin next dc2tog in the same space. End with the find dc2tog in the same chain 1 space as your first stitch, chain 1 and join to the top of the first dc2tog. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note: If you like, you can continue this pattern beyond these rows.  The more rows you add, the deeper your bag!

Row 21:  Before you begin this row, take a moment to gain your bearings.  The bottom of your bag is a square and if you want your handles to match up with the sides of the square, you need to place your first stitch in a specific location.   Look at the bottom of your bag and find row 6.  Look for the center V of one of the corner. From each center corner V, trace up and place a marker in the V in the top row. Mark all 4.  You should see that there are a total of 11 Vs between one center V and the next center V.  Count over to the fifth V from one of the corner markers and join yarn with a standing single crochet in that chain 1 space.  Crochet a second SC in that space. In each of the chain 1 spaces around, crochet 2 SCs.  Join to the top of the first single crochet. I recommend keeping the same color, but you can fasten off and use a new color in the next round. (96 scs)

I marked my V-stitches and moved the stitch markers to the single crochets in preparation for Row 22.

Row 22: Let’s make the handles! There is a lot of counting going on for the rest of the pattern, so make sure to check frequently!

If you are using the same color, chain 1. SC in the same stitch as join. (If you are using a different color, make a standing SC into the first stitch from the last row.) SC in the next 22 stitches. Slip stitch into the next stitch. Chain 32 (you can do more if you want longer handles!). Skip 16 stitches and slip stitch into the 17^th stitch. SC into the next stitch and in each of the next 29 stitches (30 scs). Slip stitch into the next stitch. Chain 32. SC into the next stitch and each of the next 6 stitches. Slip stitch to the top of the first SC to join. (2 sets of 30 single crochets, 4 slip stiches, 2 sets of 32 chains). Note: if you are changing colors each row, I would recommend using the same color for this row and the next.

Row 23: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch** and in each of the next 22 stitches. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into each the 32 chains. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into the next 30 stitches. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into each the 32 chains. Skip the slip stitch and single crochet into each of the next 7 stitches.  Slip stitch to the top of the first SC to join. Fasten off.

**Remember that if you are joining another color, you can join using the standing SC instead of joining and chaining 1 before the SC.

Row 24: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in the next 22 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten Off.

Row 25: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in the next 22 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 28 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 14 stitches.  In the next, stitch SC once and slip stitch into the same stitch.  Chain 2, skip 2 stitches. Slip stitch and SC into the next stitch. This forms the button hole. SC in each of the next 13 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 28 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 7 stitches. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten Off.

Row 26: Chain 1, SC in the same stitch and in the next 22 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 26 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 30 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next 26 stitches. Skip the next SC and SC in each of the next. Join to the top of the first SC. Fasten Off.

If you want thicker straps, you can keep going beyond Row 26, but I think 4 rows is enough!

To finish, weave in any ends you have. Sew a button on the inside of the bag opposite the button hole.  When you slip the button through the hole and hold the handles, the bag will close up quite nicely!

Feel free to add your favorite flower or other accessory!